Removing a solid top

reek29

reek29

Member
Hi, all!
I'm in the process of restoring a 1930 special coupe. Problem is that someone in the past has installed a solid top. It is leaded in. Because of this, I can't separate the two body halves in order to sandblast/clean and prep.
This being said, does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed?
I can either leave it or remove it, but I'd rather remove it if it's feasible.
Thanks for the help,
Rick
 
Years ago I looked at buying a 1930 coupe that had a hard top installed with screws into the wood and bead of some kind of sealer in the gap. I passed on the car because of that modification. I heard that the guy who did buy the car left the hard top in place and covered it with thin padding, rubber top material, glued on fabric welting, etc. It appeared so authentic that many experienced Model-A guys were fooled.
 
Farrell In Vancouver said:
Must be pretty "special" for a 1930
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing since to my knowledge there was not a Special Coupe manufactured in 1930.

Rick, you posting up pictures showing us what you are encountering would all of us well as we could assess the situation. The reason I say this is, I do not understand why you cannot take a small abrasive cut-off wheel and cut at the edge of the original sheetmetal where the replacement top was added. This will allow you to access the area where you may be able to take a wood chisel to split the remaining sheetmetal of the top from the original body metal.
 
The Model A's I remember that were still running around when i was a kid, '50's and '60's, generally had hard tops installed to stop the leaks. Most of them seemed to be '30-31 coupes, by the way. The tops I looked at were probably not really attached to metal in any meaningful way...they were all pretty crude, a sheet of galvanized with a heavy layer of roofing tar around the edge. The tin was quite likely held in place with more tar...
 
Sorry, maybe used the wrong term. Coupe has cowl lamps and has the block and wiring for a dome lamp. Anyway, got into it a little today and melted away some lead. It's welded for an inch or so every 6 or 8 inches.
Brent- I can take an abrasive wheel and probably get the sheet metal off.
I haven't gotten far enough with my melt yet to determine how the visor is attached but I assume it will be the same if the sheet metal runs all the way to the front in one piece. Once I get the sheet metal off, I'll post some pics and go on from there. Either way I go I'll still need the top kit.
 
Here are some pics
 

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Well, I suppose it boils down to how far (correct) you want it to be, ...and what your skills are.

If I were in your shoes and wanted to truly restore it, I would remove all the wood and start over with that area. I would remove the top insert as close to where it has been welded first and then see how securely it is welded in. If it is too far gone, I would cut out a piece of original sheetmetal about ½" from the perimeter channel (shown in red below)and then make a new piece in my Pullmax to weld in. With a sample, a good sheetmetal shop in your area should be able to duplicate this. If you want to do it yourself, a die could be shaped using bar stock and weld to replicate the male & female portions, then use an Arbor Press to fabricate the sections you would need. you could also use a bead roller with a ¼" bead and a Tipping Die to replicate it. Then drill the appropriate holes for the roof tacks.
 

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Thanks Brent, for taking the time to post those pictures. They are really helpful. I'm gonna remove the insert and post some pics.
Paul- I did consider just hiding the solid top, but there is a lot of hidden rust and I need to separate the body halves in order to clean/repair.
As always, great advice.
Thanks,
Rick
 
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