Removing 4 Bad Drums from 4 Good Hubs

R

Ruth

Well-known member
I have 4 drums and hubs that I want to send to (fill in the blanK) to have 4 new drums swedged onto with 20 new studs. :)
To save costs I would like to remove the bad drums before sending. I don't want to just press out the studs and possibly ruin the hubs. Would it be feasible to cut the old studs flush with the drums and then press out the heads?
Or should I bite the bullet and have the "experts" do the whole job.
Thanks all.
 
Last edited:
An expert is just one who stepped up any tryed it himself and who after trying at it became good at it if you have a 20 ton press I think you can save yourself some shipping cost.

Remember Andrew Carnegie knew nothing about steel when he set out to build the first all steel rail road bridge.
 
Back in my teaching days i used to tell my students that an "expert" is the guy who is one page ahead of you in the book!!!
 
If you have a drill press and an Ace Hardware nearby get a 9/16 open hole cutting bit (maybe 2) and cut out the swedged part of the bolts. If you have more money (approximately $100) get a carbide one from a company that I cannot remember out of Minnesota. Cut the swedged part of the drums out and drop the hubs and drums on a concrete floor - hub side up. They will separate easily.

I recommend Randy Gross.

Vic
 
I recently separated my drums and sent the hubs off. 39 lbs for the hubs and shoes.

Rear drums were about 7lbs 8 oz each and the fronts 7lbs 1oz each...so saved over 29 lbs shipping.

I started out cutting the swedge with a hole saw. The saw wore quickly but fortunately another barner lent me his swedge cutting tool.....

I think two hole saws would have done it....
 

Attachments

  • P1010893.JPG
    P1010893.JPG
    142.3 KB · Views: 129
  • P1010894.JPG
    P1010894.JPG
    160.7 KB · Views: 120
Last edited:
I backed up my hub with an impact socket big enough to accept the head of the stud (which supported the hub and prevented any distortion to it) with some clrnc resting on a 3/4" steel plate and the ram on the threaded section. the studs pressed out without a problem and it took less time to do each one than it did to write this. Now as a disclaimer I have a lot of experience pressing bearings on and off rear axles etc. and if I had a 40 ton press I would have done the whole job, but I do not have a shoe grinder to arc the brakes so after pressing out the studs and not having a 40 ton press I sent the hubs to Randy to do the rest of the job and was more than pleased with the results. Shipping out was about 17.00 in a large flat rate box. 2 hubs and 4 shoes in the box. I only did my front drums. Good luck
 
And keep the speed down, if you have to stop, keep the hole saw in contact until the heat leaves the hole saw. I learned that from a true machinist after burning up drill bits.
 
"Removing 4 Bad Drums from 4 Good Hubs?"

Called and asked same question to Mr. Mel Gros about (10) years ago.

Mr. Gros responded to please, please, please send the entire assembly with old steel drums attached because even all of the the so-called Model A experts screw up countless good hubs which makes his work far more difficult.

FWIW: Because of his humble request, I just followed his wishes.
 
I have used a good quality 5/8" hole saw, not of Harbor Freight quality, with the drill bit removed. The hole saw pilots around the lug that is to be cut out. Slow speed on the drill press with a few drops of oil and the hole saw has lasted thru numerous hubs. There is no need to go down into the drum more than 1/16" or so. Just cutting the swedge out of the lug is all that is needed. I then press the stud out on the original tooling I have that was made for the job which consists of a backing fixture surrounding the inside surface of the hub around the lug head. The replacement lug is then swedged using another tool and a press capable of 22-24 tons, no more nor less.
 
John is right on. I use a 5/8" BiMetal hole saw. A good one from a good tool store - not HF. Drill out a set yesterday. DO NOT try to just press the studs out. You will run the risk of warping the hubs then the vendor you send them to has to correct the warped hub or worse yet has to discard it 'cause it will not ture up.
 
A FWIW opinion that is based on my own experiences, a 20 ton hydraulic press ain't gonna get the job done. Also, to do the job correctly the hubs need to be placed in a lathe and trued where the drum mates. Then the shoe surface needs to be machined so it is concentric with the bearing centerline.
 
I compromised and cut around the hubs removing the majority of the drum. Just leave some room around the hub when running the torch. The person I sent them to had no problem with that. Would not hurt to ask the service person first. I saved a bit on the freight and the packaging was much easier .
 
The hole saw I used to cut the swedge was made in China...

And the oil I used to lube the hole saw that cut the swedge was probably from the Middle East...

And the drill I used to turn the hole saw that cut the swedge was made in China

And the battery I used to power the drill that turned the hole saw that cut the swedge was made in China.

BUT, the electricity I used to charge the battery that powered the drill that turned the saw that was lubed with OPEC oil was PROBABLY made in the USA!:D
 
Some of the suppliers sell the cutting tool to cut the swag. Even then you need to properly support each lug when you press them out so as not to warp the hub.

My recommendation is you do business with Randy Gross in Southern California. Phone cell 714-292-8660. His prices and service cannot be beat. If you send the drums\hubs to him he can remove the drums without inflicting damage. The extra cost of shipping will be off-set by the cost of the tool that you may never use again.

Tom Endy
 
All good suggestions. I'll have to sleep on it. This is a spare set as these are the hubs/drums I removed from the car when I installed new drums and hubs. One of the rear drums has loose studs and all are way over 11".

Whichever I decide I will be sending them to Randy.
 
My method is different from any posted here. I simply cut the stud off as close to the old drum as possible and grind it flush. Once all are ground, I center punch each and drill them with a 1/2" bit just enough to go through the drum with the tip of the bit. I then support the drum on a pipe just large enough to let the stud drop into it and drive the stud out with a 16oz hammer and a drift. There is no way to warp a hub with a small hammer and drift if the drill cuts most of the swedge. FWIW.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top