Removing 1940 drums

We need more details. What have you done so far? Are you using a KR Wilson (or other quality) puller? Has it popped off of the axle and is stuck on the shoes? Has it popped of of the axle and possibly being held by safety hubs (look for two threaded studs coming out through the axle housings as an indication of safety hubs)?

Charlie Stephens
 
The drums are on a hydraulic brake conversion on a 34 sedan. The drums turn freely so not stuck to the shoes. They appear to just be stuck to the hubs. I've viewed several videos on YouTube showing several ways. Some people say bang on the drums with a hammer, others say don't and various other methods use gear pullers, but all are on 1960s and later drums. Haven't been able th find any info on early ford drums. I've thought of banging around the drums with a hammer and then using a gear puller hooking it to the outer lips of the drum but wanted th check if any ford barn members had any better ideas.
Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Whoa! Forget all that generic stuff.

For an early ford you NEED an early Ford type hub puller.

Several posts here praising the Vintage Precision puller. (One from myself). If you can find/afford one, the KR Wilson puller is the best.

Do not attempt to do the job with anything else.

https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100312

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/vintage-precision-ford-hub-puller.587471/

One on the hamb from our dearly Missed friend Dick.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-ford-brake-drum-removal-with-krw-tool.343596/

I just looked and can't find anything on youtube showing an early Ford rear hub removal. Next time I do one I'll video it and post it up.

Mart.
 
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I think Mart covered it, but just in case, you can NOT use a normal puller. It will destroy the drums. You HAVE to have a puller made specifically for the early Ford drum/hub.
 
He is trying to separate the hubs from the drums. Different problem. The studs are actually rivets and must be machined to remove. I have drilled and I have ground. By far the easiest is to use a 5/8" deep hole saw. Yes it will cut the soft metal. You just it put over the stud and drill away. It may start to cut some of the stud threads but so what. It is really kind of automatic as the cone shaped rimnent of the stud will start turning and will slow down the drilling.
What ever you do, DO NOT TRY TO BEAT THEM OUT. You will bend the flange and it will need to be faced.
 
Andy, with utmost respect, I don't think the OP realised the drums have to come off with the hubs. I think the hubs are still on the axle, but he thinks the drums come off.

Dennis, The drums are riveted to the hubs via the studs. you need to pull the hub and drum as a complete unit. Hence the advice to get the correct puller.

Mart.
 
Dennis, You need to explain more clearly what the problem is.
Photos are needed if you desire the best solution.
 
Dennis,

I think I understand your problem. You need to know the drum and hub come off of the rear as an assembly. They are permanently attached to each other. The drum doesn't come off like it does on a modern rear end. If you don't use the correct puller you will damage parts. Contact your local Model A or Early V8 club and see if they have the correct puller. The correct puller will pull from the center snout on the hub. Do not use a puller that attaches to the studs to pull. Once the hub/drum assemblies are removed if you need to replace the drum (or hub) you need to find a machine shop that knows what they are doing (not one that has a big hammer). If you added your general location to your profile someone might be able to direct you to a local shop that knows what they are doing.

Charlie Stephens
 
Mac VanPelt will rent his Winfield hub removal tool at a very fair rate.....see below! DD

This is the Winfield Tool Works hub puller for rental only. Safely removes stubborn drum hubs. Available for 2 week ($25.00) or 1 month ($40.00) rental plus the UPS to and from our warehouse. Requires a $200.00 deposit on credit card. USA customer locations only. We supply the UPS return label for easy drop off at your local UPS Store for return. Call to schedule.

brakedrum-pullertool.jpg


VANPELT SALES LLC
P O Box 327
Batavia, Ohio 45103 USA
(800) 299-7496 Toll Free in USA
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Dennis,

I think I understand your problem. You need to know the drum and hub come off of the rear as an assembly. They are permanently attached to each other. The drum doesn't come off like it does on a modern rear end. If you don't use the correct puller you will damage parts. Contact your local Model A or Early V8 club and see if they have the correct puller. The correct puller will pull from the center snout on the hub. Do not use a puller that attaches to the studs to pull. Once the hub/drum assemblies are removed if you need to replace the drum (or hub) you need to find a machine shop that knows what they are doing (not one that has a big hammer). If you added your general location to your profile someone might be able to direct you to a local shop that knows what they are doing.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

I have a wheel puller from way back that bolts to three wheel studs; crank down on the center bolt and whack the head of said bolt with a ball peen. Tighten it a bit more and whack again. Always worked; never a problem. You run the axel nut onto the axel, castellated side down, until it is almost flush, to protect the end threads of the axel. What is the supposed problem with this type of puller. I am about to pull the rear hubs on my '41 and do not want to mess something up.
 
You understand that the hub in no way is affected by hitting on the axle. The hub is not backed up with anything. Hitting on the end of the axle is the same as hitting on the carrier bearings. If the axle did not have the axle bells to hide the forces and you hit the end of the axle you could see you were just hitting the center section. The hub just rides along.
I grant you there is a shock wave that goes down the axle but the force goes to the carrier bearings.
I would get a proper tool or be ready to rebuild the axle plus buy new hubs.
 
Andy's right do not hammer on the end of the axle or a puller attached to the axle, you are hammering on the timken bearings in the rear end, and on the penion gear if on driver's side. Bad idea. Al
 
drolston said:
I have a wheel puller from way back that bolts to three wheel studs; crank down on the center bolt and whack the head of said bolt with a ball peen. Tighten it a bit more and whack again. Always worked; never a problem. You run the axel nut onto the axel, castellated side down, until it is almost flush, to protect the end threads of the axel. What is the supposed problem with this type of puller. I am about to pull the rear hubs on my '41 and do not want to mess something up.
Click to expand...

If you can get the drum off with your puller...
You will bend the drum, no maybe.
Or, it was way too loose.

Karl
 
The tool offered by Mac's clamps to the hub center, not the studs. Is it functional and safe for the drums and axel? Do I need one of those cap nuts to protect the axel threads, or will the reversed axel nut suffice?
 

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drolston said:
The tool offered by Mac's clamps to the hub center, not the studs. Is it functional and safe for the drums and axel? Do I need one of those cap nuts to protect the axel threads, or will the reversed axel nut suffice?
Click to expand...

DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY AND TIME ON THIS 'ECONOMY' THINGIE!

324539



Mac VanPelt's rental tool(NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH MAC'S ANTIQUE FORD PARTS) DOES clamp to the hub CENTER. SEE post #12 above! That is the only correct way to remove these drum/hub assemblies. It will have ALL of the pieces to safely use it. Your drums and axles will love you for it. DD
 
The one pictured clamps to the hub center. The back disk is split to fit behind the wide part of the hub center. The front disk holds the back pieces together. Why is this one not okay?
 
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