Remove the Body

The tops on the closed cars aren't designed to hold a load well and open cars don't even have a real structure. An H frame can be fabricated from steel tube or lumber depending on resources available. A hook in the middle and the legs of the H can attach straps, cables, or rope to extend from there down to what ever is left of the subframe or body sills. An overhead hoist can be rigged to pick up about any model A body within reason.

With no hoist provisions, a person needs some strong friends on the corners to lift with manpower and add in their favorite beverages as rewards for their efforts. A heavy body may require some good eats as well.

The bodies are bolted down to the frame with wood blocks. Any connection to the frame such as electrical system, fuel system, and steering column have to be disconnected as applicable. The hood & radiator supports, rear fenders, and running boards also really need to be out of the way to aid in access and allowing the body to be set down flat on a support of the owners choice. The running board aprons lie under the body so it should be lifted to remove those so that involves the front fenders as well.

Model Ts are easier but model As aren't much different. The rusty bolts are always the hardest part.
 
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I advise some delay in starting to restore the car. Now that you have it running, and you report that the brakes are working well, drive it around for a while. Check the oil in the steering box and, if you have not done so, the transmission and rear end too. Grease the chassis. Restoring the car is a big commitment in terms of time and money. Some people never get the car back together again.
 
nkaminar, I really respect your opinion but the reason I got the car in the first place was to work on especially now while I am recovering from knee replacement surgery and can't rock climb or mountain bike.
 
OK, John,

Have fun and keep us informed on your progress. It will be steep learning curve. Take photos and make notes as you go so that you have record to help you put it back together.
 
Here is a shameless plug for my clubs videos. You can go to the Diablo A's website or get them from most Model A vendors. But there are 23ish videos on how to restore your Model A.

As far as removing the body, essentially remove everything off/out of it: steering, fenders, seats, doors, glass, hood, running boards. Then if it is just you use 2x4's to raise front and back a little at a time. Then roll the frame out from under it and leave the body on saw- horses or place it on a dolly or however you plan to work on it. Take a gazillion pictures and notes so that you remember things a year or two down the road.

Mike
 
Don't take it apart? Do a driving restoration. First make the car safe to drive by restoring the brakes, suspension & steering.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
Don't take it apart? Do a driving restoration. First make the car safe to drive by restoring the brakes, suspension & steering.
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X2. Sound advice. Going this route will be physically less demanding while you recover from your knee surgery. :)
 
I was on the path for knee replacement. I could hardly walk and was in pain to the point where sleep was difficult. I started taking "Move Free" and now no pain and I go for hikes with my wife. It has been about 5 years now and no knee surgery in sight. https://www.amazon.com/Move-Free-Advanced-Plus-tablets/dp/B001W2MBSE?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have nothing to gain by you using this product. I am just putting this information out there to help people that have problems with arthritic knees. I will be 81 this November.
 
1930artdeco said:
Here is a shameless plug for my clubs videos. You can go to the Diablo A's website or get them from most Model A vendors. But there are 23ish videos on how to restore your Model A.

As far as removing the body, essentially remove everything off/out of it: steering, fenders, seats, doors, glass, hood, running boards. Then if it is just you use 2x4's to raise front and back a little at a time. Then roll the frame out from under it and leave the body on saw- horses or place it on a dolly or however you plan to work on it. Take a gazillion pictures and notes so that you remember things a year or two down the road.

Mike
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That’s is what I did.
 

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While this picture is my open cab,I have done this on closed cabs,Tudors,Roadsters,and coupes.I work by myself,and don't like to work real hard.I use whatever length 2X4 I think I might need,and drill a few holes in them to match up with the holes in the body.I bore the bottoms of the holes for the bolt heads so they don't protrude and hang up while sliding.I jack the body up,one side at a time,and slide the wood under it,lining the bolt holes up for both the wood and body.Stick the bolts up through,and nut them finger tight.I lay cross pieces over the frame,for my wood sills to sit on.Add as needed to get it high enough to clear the crossmember,Once the rear is set on a horse,you can kind of roll the chassis forward and slide the body backwards.When the cowl is at the rear crossmember you can slide another horse under the body and wheel the chassis away.I do use real 2X4's,not lumberyard 1-1/2 inch thick things.Tomorrow I'm sliding my body back on the chassis.
 

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It's a bit of messing around but if your by yourself it can be done with an engine hoist run through an open window and 4 ratchet straps down to the floors. Run two down to the front cowl mounts and two to the rear floor. I've done this on my coupe a couple times now, though the rear floor is non existent at the moment. I just slide a sturdy length of lumber under the body in front of the rear wheel with two eye bolts through it.

Takes a couple trys to adjust the straps in order to get it to lift relatively level but it can be done.

Raise the body enough to clear the rear wheel and roll the whole thing off to the side.
It does help to have an extra person to steady the body from swinging. If you are alone a strap from the cowl to the hoist and one from the rear body to the hoist will help.

Two cheap furniture dollys from Horrible Freight and some lumber to set it down on and you can roll the body around no problem.
 
I would not remove the body. I'd yank the engine/trans. Put it on jack stands then strip it down to bare frame, splash aprons and body shell. At that point you can restore pretty much everything but the hidden top of the frame rails. If you still want the body off replace any rotted wood before you pull it. Keep any blocks/shims in their original location when putting the body back on. Take 100s of before and during disassembly photos. You'll be dealing with a lot of worn parts, rusty frozen bolts so as you break one mark it on the list to buy another - when parts arrive put them in the right bag. A well organized disassembly will make reassembly much less frustrating. Decide when you want to restore the parts you take off. Removing a few and restoring them then bagging them on the shelf will vary your tasks and keep things from being monotonous.
BTW - a Ford Model A ad said there were over 5,500 parts.........
 
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