Remove Steering Wheel

[johnr9q@yahoo.com]

I have tried every trick I can find on the internet, nothing works, it is frozen. Ideas?

 

[old31]

You need to use a steering wheel puller.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977937&cat=41753

 

[Joe K]

The threads at the top of the column are kind of "sensitive." Between a fine thread and the hole bored through the column.

Some (including me) have backed the nut off a couple of turns and then while holding the steering wheel at the hub, "hammer" the nut to cause the wheel to back off the taper.

And some (including me) have broken the thread off leaving not enough to put it back together. Repair in this area involves building up with weld/boring out the hole/re-threading the stub. Work easily done in a lathe but near impossible with hand tools. And not anything you can do "in place."

Best is the "puller." Something can be cobbled together to do similar work, but bear on the backside of the hub as closely as possible, and not on the "arms" of the wheel.


Joe K

 

[katy]

Without a puller, an old trick is to use 2 people and 2 hammers, one of which is a ball pein hammer. Back the nut off until the top of the nut is flush w/the top of the shaft, one person pulling up on the steering wheel, the other person holding the ball pein hammer's flat side against the nut/shaft and hitting the ball end with the second hammer.

 

[updraught]

From the old daze.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47269&highlight=steering+wheel

 

[Big hammer]

Bill Willamson method works !!! column in the car or column in a vise ! Sure miss him .

 

[johnr9q@yahoo.com]

I made my own puller. Both pieces ar 3/4" and when I twisted down on the bolts the 3/4 piece bent but finally popped. I used alumonum which isn't as stiff as steel but it worked.

 

[JRrev]

I did the hammer trick with the loosened nut and broke off the threaded shaft end. I didn't like the puller type which gouged the bottom of the wheel if it was very stuck.

I made a puller out of steel bar with 1/2" bolt in the center (to go against a heavy washer against the end of the shaft). I drilled/filed two slots. Then I drilled and tapped two holes in the inside of the hub adjacent to the shaft (originals have a steel inner piece though I did find a repro that didn't). Threading long bolts through the puller slots into the tapped holes with tightening the center bolt worked many times over the years.

 

[old ugly]

on the earlier ones (28,29)
i put a punch that fits my air chisel. sneek it in and onto the metal shank of the wheel and give it a couple of shots. they have always come off. but leave a small divot, seems like a small price to pay to get the pesky thing off.
30 31 is a different story not much room to get in there, if any.

 

[Big hammer]

Bill Williamson’s method has worked for me twice, 29 2 tooth out of the car chucked up in a vise, push down on the outside edge with one hand, pull up on the other side, then switch which sides of the pulling and pushing, pull and push at the same time. In my L31 Tudor I had to adjust Bill’s method, sitting down on the seat I used my forearms pushing and pulling at the same time, one forearm under one side the other on top of the steering wheel, don’t forget about the nut as I removed it and when the wheel popped off it hit me in the nose and made it bloody with watery eyes ! Bill had a good laugh a out that !