Remove Pinion Gear from Housing

Chris Haynes

Chris Haynes

Well-known member
I need suggestions on how to Remove the Pinion Gear from Housing. I have tried lots of heat around the bearing area and have a small two ton jack inside the housing putting pressure on the pinion gear. It doesn't budge. I am open to serious ideas.
 
If its buggered just run a arc weld around inside & will fall out ,If a keeper why take it out , may need a puller ,
 
Mitchell Overdrive makes a dandy pinion puller. I’ve never had mine fail to remove or insert a pinion bearing set. Available from all the usual Model A Vendors.
 
I have a home-made clamp/puller made similarly to the KRW tool. In the past I have used the 2 ton jack inside the circle of the punkin - which works.

KRW Tool below - thanks to Fordbarn.

KR-WILSON-KRW-FORD-Model-A-Drive-Pinion.webp


There are at least three different methodologies described on Youtube for "removal without a press."

And we are talking about the "later" punkin/driveshaft? Early 28 driveshafts are "different" not so much in the pinion bearing but in the shaft attachment.


Joe K
 
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JayJay said:
Mitchell Overdrive makes a dandy pinion puller. I’ve never had mine fail to remove or insert a pinion bearing set. Available from all the usual Model A Vendors.
Click to expand...

Works very well ! Well made tool ! Made in the USA ! By Americans ! Support your local model A suppliers !
 
Big hammer said:
Works very well ! Well made tool ! Made in the USA ! By Americans ! Support your local model A suppliers !
Click to expand...
The Mitchell puller works by inserting a pull plate between the two large pinion preload adjusting nuts. This could result in changing the preload if you simply re-insert without resetting. I modified mine by making a clamp for the driveshaft that clamps forward of the second pinion nut, so you don’t have to break that adjustment if you don’t want to.
 
I use a clamping collar with the Mitchell puller so I don't have to disturb the preload.

584817
 

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JayJay said:
The Mitchell puller works by inserting a pull plate between the two large pinion preload adjusting nuts. This could result in changing the preload if you simply re-insert without resetting. I modified mine by making a clamp for the driveshaft that clamps forward of the second pinion nut, so you don’t have to break that adjustment if you don’t want to.
Click to expand...

I used the witness mark which worked well, I was planning on replacing the bearings anyway, the witness mark got me in the ballpark for the preload .
 
Chris, I would try the Mitchell puller and remove the race and bearings and then disassemble . You need a rebuild at this point of all parts with proper preloads when the time comes . I offered to chat with you on the Model A restorer club site as in the Marc tech advisor. In my years I’ve done in excess of 400 Flathead rear ends. Admittedly I habe a good tool arsenal… much of it is methodology .
Using a bottle Jack has been know to distort housings. I have a local friend who messed his up… just an fyi…
My number is (636) 734-5510 if you want to chat for a few minutes. I’m pretty sure I’ve done more than most folks on the sites. Just one of my staples and I have given a number of seminars on rebuilding at the National meets.
2nd personalized offer.
Larry Shepard
Marc tech advisor
 
If you'd like to see the Mitchell pinion puller in action, fast forward to about 10:45 in this video- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKRHYlwR7eU

It works VERY well. I've done over 20 of them this way, and it has never failed. In your shoes, I would take up Larry Shepard's generosity. That man knows what he is doing.
 
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