Remote Oil Filter Modification

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Gang: There is ANOTHER way to create a 95% filtering system - off of a stock flathead block (at least the ones in the 40's).

When I purchased my 1942 Merc block (which was a WWII engine in a crate), it had a 'military oiling' system modification to it. Basically, they had a specialized fitting that screwed into the stock vertical oil port and it had a tight fitting 'tube" that went down into the drilled oil passage of the block.

This tube prevented the oil from entering the horizontal oil galley that goes to the back of the cam. Instead, it directed the oil out the 90 degree brass fitting and into a full-flow style filter (which I don't have). then there was another line that brought the oil BACK to the horizontal oil galley - via a third 1/4" NPT oil port. I chose to NOT use this - as I wanted 100% filtration (which is why I have a modified pump and "custom" oil filter that looks like an old Fram).

In the picture that shows the back of my block - you'll see the short 1/4" pipe nipple that came with the setup (on back of block). As I was going with a 100% full-flow system (off a modified pump), I enlarged the horizontal fitting to 3/8" NPT and drilled out the oil passage to a larger size. I've include a few pictures of my modified pump.

 

[JSeery]

Here's the photos rotated (iPhone I assume ). I like the filter!! Looks like you have the connections figured out.

 

[GOSFAST]

It sounds to me like he is saying that it is more work to do it after the machining of the block. I hope GOSFAST will come back and clarify the correct time to do the modification and at what point it is "too late".

The reason you want it done ahead of time, during all the block machining, is because it's much easier not having to worry about any chips (or any foreign material) getting caught in the passages.

The 2 very last procedures done on EVERY build here is first run the block through the hot tank and second hand wash it with soap and water.

Once you get to this stage you absolutely want to avoid any add'l machining.

Even a simple operation like installing a heli-coil (specifically in the decks) runs the risk of "flying-chips" ending up where they shouldn't! The head bolt holes are another area we test way beforehand by "over-torquing" slightly. This gets done when honing with the block plate. They are tested slightly "higher-than-normal" when installing the plate then backed down!

The biggest issue is remembering to either install the "grub" screw in the passage or leave it out, if you run the filter it MUST be in place to direct the oil flow through the filter, no remote filter, leave it out!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Just a couple more tips while we're on this subject (the oiling system), try to avoid using any rubber hoses with those "screw-clamps", there are better alternatives. And try to NOT mount the filter hanging "upside-down", keep it in the upright position (photo below)! And there is definitely an "in & out" position on the filter adapters, most are marked, some aren't.

 

[GordonC]

Thanks JSeery! Not an iPhone, Galaxy s8. Pics are normal on my desktop but flipped around when I uploaded them. Thanks for fixing them!

GOSFAST I hear you on the hoses and promise Ill get some proper ones once I get a little closer to getting this on the road. Right now I want to hear this engine fire as its been a year since it was built. I have turned it regularly and given it a few squirts of mystery oil in the cylinders but am ready to hear it come to life.

 

[40cpe]

The reason you want it done ahead of time, during all the block machining, is because it's much easier not having to worry about any chips (or any foreign material) getting caught in the passage



.

Thanks Gary. That clears up a time frame that could be confused if taken the wrong way.

 

[JSeery]

Not an iPhone, Galaxy s8. Pics are normal on my desktop but flipped around when I uploaded them. Thanks for fixing them!

That's interesting, that's what I use an S8. That type of issue is normally an iPhone one.