Refitting Valve Assembly 8BA Style Valve

Phil Gillespie

Phil Gillespie

Well-known member
Just had a failure of a solid Johnson Lifter. The tight adjuster had become loose and wound itself inwards. Approx 30 thou clearance at this exhaust valve. Removed and refitted another adjusting screw whhich is firm as the others. Only 400 plus miles on the rebuild.


The refitting of the horseshoe clip is proving difficult.
Question: I need to get the pickle fork in the lower groove on valve guide in order to pull th guide down slightly to fit horseshoe clip.?
I think this was my problem as did not get into this groove to ease the guide downwards too access top groove for clip.
Yes?


Thanks,
Phil NZ
 
As you say get fork into groove and pull down...make sure horseshoeclip is all the way in.
When you let go of it knock the tab of the clip in slightly and move it sideways to make sure it is in position.
 
My tip or trick: I paint the retaining pickle fork slot white with a paint pen.
sometimes you must turn the spring so now you see a good shot of the
guide slot for your fork or better yet, I "clock" the assembly before I shove it
in the block, I'm talking about the wind of the spring..sam
 
big job said:
My tip or trick: I paint the retaining pickle fork slot white with a paint pen.
sometimes you must turn the spring so now you see a good shot of the
guide slot for your fork or better yet, I "clock" the assembly before I shove it
in the block, I'm talking about the wind of the spring..sam
Click to expand...



I did a similar. Marked the top groove for the horse shoe clip to see how much the guide needs to come down before fitting the clip. A little hard to see with engine in car especially the 39 standard.
Phil NZ
 
flatheadmurre said:
As you say get fork into groove and pull down...make sure horseshoeclip is all the way in.
When you let go of it knock the tab of the clip in slightly and move it sideways to make sure it is in position.
Click to expand...



Ok got it done thanks to assistance from tis site.
Shame the USA made solid adjustable lifters , or this particular one didnt do the job. came slack at adjuster after only 400 mls on engine.
Phil NZ
 
Have in the past re-squeezed the adjuster screw to reestablish the thread mismatch and restore the thread interference locking.
379305
 

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51 MERC-CT said:
Have in the past re-squeezed the adjuster screw to reestablish the thread mismatch and restore the thread interference locking.
379305
Click to expand...
I just removed an adjuster from another spare lifter and refitted to existing lifter and the tension was back again. Useful info on the resqueeze.
Will contact supplier and advise them as this is the second problem with these lifters. First was irregular machining on the sliding surfaces of one piece. This was replaced prior to engine assembly.
Phil NZ
 
Had the adjusting screw been moved around much prior to and during the original build? Any excess moving of the screw in and out can loosen up the thread fit.
 
JSeery said:
Had the adjusting screw been moved around much prior to and during the original build? Any excess moving of the screw in and out can loosen up the thread fit.
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Nope.These lifters were all new. Just fitted and set. The remaining ones on checking were all firm however some firmer in movement than others.
Phil NZ
 
It is important that the adjuster screw is neither too far in or too far out. The thread it screws into is only so long and if too far in or out it will not have both parts of the thread in engagement with the lifter body. that's when it goes slack. This might not apply to solid lifters, for the too far in scenario, but will still apply if too far out.

Mart.
 
"Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT
Have in the past re-squeezed the adjuster screw to reestablish the thread mismatch and restore the thread interference locking."


How much force does it take to move the threads for the correct mismatch? Vice?

Thanks, Ed
 
You didn't mention the type of cam you are running. Any cam with a small base circle or a lift over 350 needs to use chevy valves as they are longer and don't have the lifter scew too far out. also the top of the valve guide should be ground down 1/8 inch to make room for the adjusting wrench. I realize this can;t be done in an assembled engine, but something you should think about before installing a cam.
 
I have done mine in a vice. Pretty much give it all I can do. It works. I bought a set from Speedway and the tension was all over the place. Research showed they need to turn at a minimum of 60 inch-lbs, 5 ft-lbs, so I now test each one and squeeze when needed before installation, and Big job I'm gonna use my paint pen next time!
 
Mart said:
It is important that the adjuster screw is neither too far in or too far out. The thread it screws into is only so long and if too far in or out it will not have both parts of the thread in engagement with the lifter body. that's when it goes slack. This might not apply to solid lifters, for the too far in scenario, but will still apply if too far out.

Mart.
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All these new bits went in with a new valve train ex Gary Gofast. The adjusters are not too far in or out. Will see what the suppliers comments are.
Thanks
Phil NZ
 
Ol' Ron said:
You didn't mention the type of cam you are running. Any cam with a small base circle or a lift over 350 needs to use chevy valves as they are longer and don't have the lifter scew too far out. also the top of the valve guide should be ground down 1/8 inch to make room for the adjusting wrench. I realize this can;t be done in an assembled engine, but something you should think about before installing a cam.
Click to expand...


Just a standard cam the later one as there is the adaptor fitted at the distributor. Have the holes drilled to hold lifter for adjustment and spanner fits in ok for adjustement.
Phil NZ
 
This engine has just gone back into the car after a detonation problem earlier in the year when I managed to pop a hole in No4 Piston. So only 420 miles on engine and as a final follow up has just been on a dyno to ensure all fueling is good and not chance of a repeat. The dyno used was designed and built in good old NZ and they are also exported world wide.
Phil NZ
 
One thing that is confusing is what is really "Johnson" and what is something other than. A lot of stuff is marketed as Johnson style but manufactured by unknown companies. Last I heard, the Johnson stuff was part of TopLine Automotive. Some stuff is crap but any of them can have manufacturing defects.
 
rotorwrench said:
One thing that is confusing is what is really "Johnson" and what is something other than. A lot of stuff is marketed as Johnson style but manufactured by unknown companies. Last I heard, the Johnson stuff was part of TopLine Automotive. Some stuff is crap but any of them can have manufacturing defects.
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Thats right and thats why I was real careful and ordered directly with Topline Automotive to avoid the chance of what has just happened to me.
And it still did.
Phil NZ
 
Using the name "Johnson" adjustable lifter is a misnomer, as the real quality, original Johnson hollow lifters have been gone for years. What is likely lefty is a hollow name.
 
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