Reducing Steering Free Play

E

Ed in Maine

Well-known member
I have completed the steps to reduce free play in the steering box and I am confident that the steering box is not a factor. The movement at the circumference of the wheel is about 1 1/4 in. What can be done to reduce lost motion in the drag link and tie rod? The problem is the car lurches back in forth in stiff wind and with pavement irregularities. It is not comfortable to drive when doing 45-50 mph. Any suggestions? Thank you, Ed
 
Ed
Movement of that magnitude should be fairly easy to spot. Top to bottom, the kingpin bushings would be suspect and/or wheel bearings.

If you eliminated the steering box as a source of free play, then with the steering wheel held straight ahead, there should be NO movement of the pitman arm when you are grabbing the circumference of the wheels and moving left & right, but you should be able to identify any other source of play.
 
Might also ensure the Pittman arm is solidly clamped to the sector shaft. Look at the connection closely while rocking the steering wheel. Even a minute amount of looseness will result in significant play.
 
I am guessing you did the adjustments correctly.

Toe-in and radials will help a lot with your issues.
 
Here are my thoughts and what I have done:


1) Replace steering balls to get rid of the 'death wobble'
2) Adjust steering box outside of car
3) Adjust toe-in to spec
4) When I reconnected the pitman arm I snugged it up an extra turn or so and that took out a lot of play. I also have the Teflon cups in mine.
5) Check king pins


Mike
 
The steering box freeplay with new box components can get very close to 1/4 " at the wheel at the center position, equal lash at both extremes and with wood ruff key pointing towards fill hole, etc. Once that's OK, then the other steps + front wheel bearing adjustment with very slight amount of preload (see other threads). A shortened pitman arm usually requires an adjustable drag link to get the gears centered with wheels straight ahead..
 
If your car is fitted with a 7 tooth sector, the answer to near zero freeplay is in my book titled 'The Complete Model A Ford Restoration Manual. All other freeplay in balljoints etc must of course be eliminated and you will be guaranteed excellent steering. Available from Mike's Affordable.
 
Is that 1.25" free-play in just the box or total ? If total thats not too bad. If just the box, it should be better/less.

I agree with properly setting the toe.
 
Quote "Is that 1.25" free-play in just the box or total ? If total thats not too bad. If just the box, it should be better/less."

I am soooo confused. We are talking about OP's steering and vehicle control.
Why would anyone advise that 1 1/4" of free-play is OK ?

If the play is not in the steering box, then it's in bearings, tie-rod ends, drag-link ends, or loose pitman arm. In which of those components would anyone think that 1 1/4" play is OK... even if cumulative?

And until free play is eliminated, why are we advising to set toe-in or buy radial tires.
 
GRutter said:
Quote "Is that 1.25" free-play in just the box or total ? If total thats not too bad. If just the box, it should be better/less."

I am soooo confused. We are talking about OP's steering and vehicle control.
Why would anyone advise that 1 1/4" of free-play is OK ?

If the play is not in the steering box, then it's in bearings, tie-rod ends, drag-link ends, or loose pitman arm. In which of those components would anyone think that 1 1/4" play is OK... even if cumulative?

And until free play is eliminated, why are we advising to set toe-in or buy radial tires.
Click to expand...

Well said. Excellent points.
 
I had a similar problem that was greatly improved by tightening the pittman arm on the sector shaft (it took some muscle) and setting the correct toe-in. My 1931 Town Sedan now steers very nicely with only a tiny bit of free play but no wandering.
 
If there is 1.25" of free-play at the steering wheel, then thats not too bad. Less than an inch is good, but, an extra .25" isn't too bad.

By now I would think everyone here would know that free-play is cumulative and all the components should be checked/adjusted/fixed.
 
Sounds like I need to start looking at my steering linkage. I have been wondering what normal is for a Model A. My steering wheel will turn about twice as much as Ed's before moving the car's lane position when cruising in a straight line. I just figured 2 1/2" at the rim is what people accepted in 1930.
 
GeneBob said:
Sounds like I need to start looking at my steering linkage. I have been wondering what normal is for a Model A. My steering wheel will turn about twice as much as Ed's before moving the car's lane position when cruising in a straight line. I just figured 2 1/2" at the rim is what people accepted in 1930.
Click to expand...




To check steering wheel free-play while vehicle is stopped just lightly turn wheel in one direction until resistance is felt and consider it as zero. Then turn in opposite direction lightly until slight resistance is felt. Measure that distance.
 
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