Redi-sleeve fit and install

Don W/Norfolk

Senior Member
So, my '40 sedan came with an 8BA installed. It also came with a leaking rear main seal. I pulled the engine and transmission (because I'm changing to a T-5 among other things) in order to more easily fix the leaking rear seal.

With all that said, I decided to replace the front seal while I had easy access to the front of the engine. Removed the pan and timing cover and discovered the crankshaft snout had a pretty good groove in the area where the old front seal resided.

Off to the nearest auto parts place I went and from there I picked up a National redi-sleeve #99162 that had the closest dimensions.

My questions is this: my crank snout seal area measures about 1.627 at its widest points (ahead of and behind the wear area). The redi-sleeve inside dimension is about .003-.004 smaller than that. How do I get the readi-sleeve to fit? Any and all suggestions, tips or hints are welcome.
dw
 
If this redi sleeve is a thin one it should come in a metal cup this is a driver, DO NOT heat, it is meant to be pressed on using the cup as the tool. The part on the front of crank where the seal ran is removable, if that comes off easy push the redi sleeve on to cover the worn area, you can also find a pipe of right inside dia. to push the sleeve on, any pipe will work as long as end is square Laurie
 
The 8BA engines used a sleeve that is seperate from the pully. You can easily get a new sleeve. I tried the one piece seal. I did not like it. It fit in the groove very sloppily and needed a lot of RTV to fill the gaps. The rope seal never leaked but the lip seal did. I have adjustable lifters and they are deep in the lifter bores. I have to turn the cam to pop them up so I can get to them. The lip seal prevents the cam cover coming off without pulling the pan. The lip seal is a solution to a non existing problem. You want some spares? They come in the Speedway gasket kits and I just throw them in a box.
 
If I read his post correctly, it is the spiral sleeve that the seal rides on that has the groove. I have never had good luck with the thin Redi-Sleeve because I am more of a blacksmith than a machinist. The sleeve is available from Speedway, and probably others. I would rather replace the sleeve. It comes off by removing the pulley key and pulling the crank timing gear off and the sleeve comes off ahead of the gear.
 
The forty crank pulley waz used there isn't any sleeve on the crank and the ware would be on the pulley? This thread confuses me. getting old. and yes they are replaceable, but are a Bit** to get off. Heat doz work here.
 
All, thanks for the suggestions.

After very carefully reassessing the situation, I decided to forge ahead with the redi-sleeve instead of trying to get the original sleeve off.

Ran the redi-sleeve around a 1" flap wheel mounted in my drill press a few times and eventually was able to get the leading edge to go over the original sleeve. Using a piece of PVC pipe coupling as a driver, by lightly tapping the PVC with a hammer, I was able to drive the redi-sleeve on over the original sleeve.

I'm going to consider this a victory.
dw
 
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