Reconditioned Model A engine block

Lawrie said:
Arnold, I have a pie of them, they may soon go to the scrap dealer if no one wants them.
Don,t worry about the studs going into the water jacket, the V8,s have all but one going into the water.

Lawrie
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I've been searching and advertising for a while looking for a motor to rebuild. I've given up.
 
Jack Shaft said:
Timeserts are better than helicoils..a sleeve instead of a coil. But yes you can junk the block, they made millions of them. Hell I just tossed one with a water jacket crack, bored .125 over and needed main bearings.. felt a little soul twinge when it slipped off the forklift tip into the scrap bin but it passed..
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It's not how many they made that matters - it's how many are still about. A decent block is not easy to find, let alone a motor for rebuild with the "extras" on it, like crank shaft, cam shaft, timing covers, sump.
As I said, I've given up.
 
I've got nine...3 B's and 6 A's..got an A with great babbit,.125 over with a beavertail crank,nice rods and a B cam available if your interested.you pay the ride :)
 
Jack Shaft said:
I've got nine...3 B's and 6 A's..got an A with great babbit,.125 over with a beavertail crank,nice rods and a B cam available if your interested.you pay the ride :)
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ship to AUS from CA? that ain't cheap.. having one available doesn't mean free btw.. very cheap? yes, don't want much for it.. but not free.
Thanks very much for the offer, "Jack". As you say, freight from Ca to here isn't cheap. Something as heavy as an engine would cost literally thousands to fly over and hundreds by surface. Surface freight can take several months. I am still waiting for some axles I bought back in July. The latest estimate is sometime in Feb. It was no slower in the days of sailing ships.
I have said here a number of times you guys don't know how good you have it. That might give you a clue.
That engine sounds good but I don't think I can do anything about it. I'll just have to wait - something will turn up one day. Thanks again.
 
No worries.. good luck in your search. DHL will ship 150lbs for 678.00US in 5 to seven days.. figure 300US for the engine, you're looking at a 1000US plus or minus.. figure this engine doesn't need the machine shop, just cleaning parts and assembly, it would pencil out to your advantage...However, I'm with you though, finding one local is your best bet.
 
Arnold, let me know, like I said I will be cleaning out some later in the year,
some blocks may have New Burlington cranks, inserted rods and rebored with new thin ring pistons various bore sides.
Lawrie
 
mill48 said:
Hi everyone. I hope someone on here can help me with a unique need for my 1928 Model A Tudor. The water jackets on my Model A have been breached and I am in need of a replacement block in good condition at a reasonable price. Can anyone in this forum refer me to someone who can maybe help me with this?
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Yes: Rather than trying to find a replacement block you can fix yours.
Lock N Stitch sells a kit that you can repair your block permanently.
Check it out.
http://castingrepair.locknstitch.com/viewitems/fsb-style-inserts-2/fsb-style-inserts-basic-kits

We have used their kits in your situation and it solves the problem.
www.jandm-machine.com
 
Licensed to kill said:
I personally wouldn't screw around with heli-coils especially when it is for a stud, not a bolt.
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I do not understand why you feel there is a difference if the hole was for a stud or a bolt. I have been in the machining and engine business for more than 60 years and have used hundreds of Heil coils with a stud. Done properly, this is a very good repair.

On some competition engines, we would automatically heil coil some stud holes that were prone to pulling out. This was done as a preventative measure.

Like a lot of things, when poorly done, the end result will be less than satisfactory.

Also, some holes that have been stripped out are so buggered up that a Heli coil is not the proper solution.

My experience and my opinion.

Chris W.
 
I vote for a step stud. You can drill and tap the block as big as you want. You have a
friend with a lathe then its a piece of cake
 
If the hole is broken out off center you can even put an off center step stud in. I don't remember where I saw them available, maybe Fastenal? Or? I keep a catalog in the back of my mind, that's where I put all of the strange items I see, but sometimes I can't remember where I put the catalog!
 
CWPASADENA said:
I do not understand why you feel there is a difference if the hole was for a stud or a bolt. I have been in the machining and engine business for more than 60 years and have used hundreds of Heil coils with a stud. Done properly, this is a very good repair.
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The reason I mentioned bolts different that studs is because if you replace a head bolt that is supposed to be 7/16" as is the case in a model A with a 1/2", you would have to drill out the head also to clear the larger bolt where as with a head stud, you can only make the threaded portion in the block 1/2" and leave the rest of the stud 7/16 to accommodate the hole in the head. Therefore, with bolts, you would be better off to repair the threads in the block to the original size IE, heli coil or sleeve.

On some competition engines, we would automatically heil coil some stud holes that were prone to pulling out. This was done as a preventative measure.
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I would be interested in hearing more about this as, on the surface, I don't understand how heli-coil threads would hold better than the bolt/stud threads when it's the same parent material.

Like a lot of things, when poorly done, the end result will be less than satisfactory.
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Amen to that.

Also, some holes that have been stripped out are so buggered up that a Heli coil is not the proper solution.

My experience and my opinion.

Chris W.
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In which case (with a stud) you could go up TWO sizes to find sound parent material then neck the stud down to factory spec. Of course you would want to radius the transition point.
 
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