Reconditiohing NOS Hoses

Mike Peters

Well-known member
1. Comparative photo of NOS upper Radiator hose and the modern version. Red stripe. Original box also. Notice that the fabric is much more coarse than the repro. The mandrel wrapping is more pronounced on the original hose than the repro. Apparently, the manufacturing process is different from today and 1928.
2. That being said, the old hose is VERY dry and hard as a rock. It will actually crack under pressure rather than flex. Luckily, I have 4 good NOS hoses to work with. Any ideas out there to soften old hoses without destroying them? Any attempt to install these hoses on a car in this condition will surely ruin the hose.
Thanks
mike
 

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I wouldn't expect too much rejuvenation from those old hoses... the rubber has undergone a chemical change as it aged, which is why it is now brittle; if there's a way to "bring them back", I'm not aware of it.
 
All NOS hoses are the same, hard as rocks! Simply boil them first and while they are still hot and soft, install them with some silicon inside the hose around the castings. Clamp them down and you're good to go. You will have to work fast as they will harden as they cool. Good luck!
 
Seeing as I have some NOS hoses and share the same concerns, I'll share what little I've learned.
These one's are hard...imagine a chunk of 2 1/2" heavy wall PVC " pipe.
...rap it on the side of a table - sounds almost the same...
It's important to resist the urge to squeeze these old hoses cuz you know they'll crack. Instead I just filled a basin from the hot water tap and immersed them. In less than a minute they were soft enough to fit over a spout bead. Maybe some hoses need boiling water as mentioned...these were OK with what the hotwater tank provided.

Preservation is usually a mystery topic when it comes to old rubber. We all seem aware that sunlight degrades things in time...so I keep them in a loosely folded brown bag .
Quite recently I tried a preservative called 303 on one hose.
Aerospace & marine have tested 303 for many years so I felt it was probably the safest as opposed to something like Armour All which I've heard rots the stitching on seats and dash boards.
I doused the hose pretty good and let it sit on the surface wet...it seemed to soak in a little and I think the rubber liked it! After wiping off the excess they dulled back down to a rich black (the stuff isn't shiny)
I did em all, they feel more "rubbery"...and if it did more good than harm that's all that matters.
Now back to welding and grinding.

*Hard to believe I'm so slow restoring a car that my parts and materials are rotting on the shelf ... :eek:
 
From Marco,

radhose.JPG


Above is one pair of lower hoses I have for the next project. Below is Bratton's pic of their hoses. I suppose "there is nothing wrong with the way the new hoses look" if someone just wants striped hoses. I consider them "similar" to the originals.

12060.jpg

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1.As always, FB came through! Water, hot water, and/or 303 conditioner from NAPA. Will try these. If hot water is required to install NOS hoses, then it also follows that to remove the same hoses from a car, the car should be recently run and the coolant still hot, right?
2. Photo shows the thickness of the red stripe on a NOS hose. Same as the photo Mike showed. The stripe on the new repro hoses have no thickness at all.
3. I still need two NOS botttom outlet hoses. Red stripe to match the upper hose. Will buy outright or trade one of my extra NOS upper inlet hoses for same. please email: mlpeters@sharontelephone.com
Thanks
mike
 

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So, for those who have installed these fossilized hoses on their cars, how long do they last in service, what with the notorious vibration and flexing of the motor mounts, etc. ?
 
So, for those who have installed these fossilized hoses on their cars, how long do they last in service, what with the notorious vibration and flexing of the motor mounts, etc. ?

I have observed many of the NOS parts disintegrate while the vehicles they are installed on attempt to complete the "mandatory tour" at National Model A events. Such is the life of the Trailer Queen.
 
I've never tried to "treat" or seal original hoses but include three steps in their use. A non-petroleum lubricant like silicone or even soapy water is helpful with installation.

1. When doing the engine I prepare the upper and lower water necks for the hoses. Prior to painting them I smooth the area where the hoses seal (about 3/4") being absolutely certain to not extend this beyond where the hose will cover. I file any high spots off the casting then fill the remaining texture with JB Weld. Once the castings are painted you have a surface that will seal nicely.

2. I also warm the hoses in very hot water just prior to installation and install while still very warm. Don't over tighten the clamps.

3. I use a pitcher to fill the cooling system with my HOTTEST tap water. As I gradually increase the water level I look for seepage at the lowest levels and work up. Everything heats up quickly as you go. when you see or feel any seepage snug that particular clamp just enough to stop it. It will seal nicely without the clamp distorting the hose.


So, for those who have installed these fossilized hoses on their cars, how long do they last in service, what with the notorious vibration and flexing of the motor mounts, etc. ?

I haven't racked up that many miles but I've driven my car hard. After almost 18 years my original hoses look like the day I installed them.

rad_clamp-01.jpg
 
As you know, there is no pressure on the hoses. I would think that they would work for a good while, before breaking down. The warm water might help them.
I would always carry a spare, though. LOL
MIKE :)
 
one question, why would you risk a $3500 engine trying to use old hoses, if they crack when you squeeze them what is going to happen when the engine is viberating all over the place? toss the damn things and get new ones,
 
one question, why would you risk a $3500 engine trying to use old hoses, if they crack when you squeeze them what is going to happen when the engine is viberating all over the place? toss the damn things and get new ones,

Yep, I agree. Throw them my way! I get some of my best parts from folks that believe new is better. :D
 
I put N.O.S. hoses on my 1928 coupe in 1985 while getting ready for showing it at the First World Meet in 1986.. I have taken them off several times & put them back on with no problems.. They are still on it & holding fine..
 
I feel that it's kinda WEIRD that J.S. won't allow repo hoses that mimic originals. Hoses & many other parts ARE expendable items. With old weathered parts, how is a car expected to look "SHOWROOM FRESH"?? I will put on repo RED hoses & original lookin' clamps 'cause I think they look "TRICK" Bill W.
 
I feel that it's kinda WEIRD that J.S. won't allow repo hoses that mimic originals. Hoses & many other parts ARE expendable items. With old weathered parts, how is a car expected to look "SHOWROOM FRESH"?? I will put on repo RED hoses & original lookin' clamps 'cause I think they look "TRICK" Bill W.
That will match your YELLOW wrong WHEELS !!..
 
I feel that it's kinda WEIRD that J.S. won't allow repo hoses that mimic originals. Hoses & many other parts ARE expendable items. With old weathered parts, how is a car expected to look "SHOWROOM FRESH"?? I will put on repo RED hoses & original lookin' clamps 'cause I think they look "TRICK" Bill W.

Of course they allow them. The RJS does not disallow anything they just won't get the full points.
 
That will match your YELLOW wrong WHEELS !!..
Fred, Buddy, they're not YELLOW-YELLOW! they'e a soft, almost straw colored. I think light colored wheels tend to show up the artistic design of the spokes better. They go well with the body color, which looks green, but is actually dark blue.(I think it is LOMBARD BLUE) Would you approve if I did a single 1/16" dark blue stripe around the wheel rim, to tie the wheel color to the body color? Your approval would mean a lot to me! Why do you almost always think other peoples CHOICES are WRONG?? Lighten up, Fred, life is short, but FUN.
Bill W.
 
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