Recommended Turning Signal Switch

Werner

Werner

Well-known member
Hello buddies,



I have a recurring problem with the universal turn signal switch. It is the cheapest "Chinese quality", the plastic housing warps and the cables quickly become stiff and the sliding contact plates are too thin.



There was higher quality (around $90) at Ecklers, Mac's, Snyder's and Mikes, identified by the metal angle hazard warning switch. However, they only offer the cheap quality for around $25.


Who knows where the higher quality turn signal switches can be ordered?




Tank you in advance!
 
Tried the cheap was a waste of time and money, went with the "$90" and it has worked flawlessly for a few years and I drive my Model A often
 
Available at Pep Boys in 1958. Try ebay. The ones at Pep Boys had a wheel that rode on the steering wheel to turn the indicator off after the turn was executed.
 
Hi,


thanks at all; extraordinary to Blockhead for the good tip advice. I didn't know Bert's shop. I have already ordered this switch there immediately.
 
nkaminar, I've got one of those but it would be a challenge to mount on an A wheel as the spark & throttle levers precludes mounting it close enough to the wheel to make it work. Hope to figure an adaption.
 
I have one of those cheap Chinese turn signal switches on my Model A. It's mounted below the spark advance lever on the steering column. It's not convenient, but it works. It's been in use for a couple of years. I live in the country so I don't bother to use turn signals much unless i'm in the city or in traffic.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Bert's has one sez made in USA, Made by Signal-Stat. https://modelastore.com/index.php?r...d=18394&search=signal&description=true&page=2. I have never used it tho, I just use a double pole, double throw switch.
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I believe this is the one I installed several years ago in my '30 CCPU (gone now). It is a bit clunky, and has to be diddled into its mounted position so you don't smack your knee on it getting in and out of the car, but it continues to work well. As a bonus it has the capability to be used in four-way flasher mode.

Werner, as an alternative there is the LogoLites system. But I don't believe that it works with any lamps other than their proprietary ones. Previous owner installed what I think is a very early prototype of this system in my '31 Town Sedan. I tried to hook it up to LED taillights and no joy.
 
If you want to save a few dollars, shop around on eBay for a Signal Stat 900 switch. Make sure you get the clamps that hold it to the steering column. Some switches have 7 wires, 8 wires and so forth. There are wiring diagrams for each on the internet. It will work with LED's, you just need to use an electronic flasher. Also, make sure to ground the switch (I ran a separate ground down my column). If it is grounded the signal light will work.
 
I bought my Signal Stat 900 from Sacramento Vintage Ford. It was wired specifically for a Model A. That was 12 years ago and it has worked without a problem.
 
Some folks will pay the big bucks for the old Signal State 700 Burn Out Proof units. There are still old SigFlare 900 units out there in pretty good shape. The new Signal Stat 900 models are good units. Not quite as heavy duty but still good enough.
 
Hallo und guten Tag.


Is Bert's a good dealer? I paid for the switch a week ago. Since Tuesday I have only received the message "A shipping label has been prepared ...".


I asked three times whether the part had been shipped and when that was. But haven't received an answer.



At Snyders, Bratton's or Eckler' I always had the replacement parts here within three to four days.


I'm irritated.
 
Werner said:
Hallo und guten Tag.


Is Bert's a good dealer? I paid for the switch a week ago. Since Tuesday I have only received the message "A shipping label has been prepared ...".


I asked three times whether the part had been shipped and when that was. But haven't received an answer.



At Snyders, Bratton's or Eckler' I always had the replacement parts here within three to four days.


I'm irritated.
Click to expand...

Bert’s automated invoicing system will only go as far as telling you that a label has been prepared, but somewhere in their documentation they will give you a tracking number. After that you need to go to the actual shipper and track it through their system. I don’t know who they use for overseas shipments, most of my orders are sent to me via US Postal Service and come within a couple of days. Even after I receive the order their internal system will show “a label has been prepared…”. It’s not near as refined as other vendors. But regardless of what their system shows, their shipping has in my experience been as good as any others (e.g., Snyder’s), and considerably better than Ecklers.

They don’t work Saturday, Sunday or Monday, so if you enquired by email or phone you will likely not hear until Tuesday Colorado time.
 
Thank you well, Papa Sierra and JayJay.



Yes, the flasher tool is shipped via USPS. But when I also look at their tracking number, I only see "label created" but not "picked up".



But it's good to know and reassuring that Bert is a good man.



Unfortunately, patience has never been my strength...


P. S.: It's the housing with metal bracket that starts the hazard warning lights. The shaky Chinese plastic garbage has a round plastic button.
 
Werner - are you checking the USPS number at USPS.com or at stamps.com? Bert’s uses the latter as his interface, but I’ve had it not update as well as usps.com. Either way, it will show up!
 
Hot rodder or restorer, the problem is the same. You have just driven two miles since your last turn and suddenly realize why other drivers around you are upset and confused. You forgot to turn off your signal. Several years ago, Chevs of the 40s sold an after market self cancelling turn switch similar in design to what has been discussed but they apparently lost their manufacturer. I am now in the process of building a self cancelling turn signal switch. If anyone has tried to do this and was either successful or ran into problems, I would like to hear about it. If and when I get mine working, I will post the setup build. Once finished, it should be fairly easy to convert your unit.
Warren
 
Guten Tag Warren.


Maybe my idea will help you? I connected a small 6 volt relay to the flasher relay with a thin wire. I soldered a small brass clapper onto the anchor.

The tiny relay is located on the inside under the fuel tank via a magnet and it knocks "clack - clack" against the sheet during the flashing process.


You don't forget that!


(The first version, like pictures, had a small bell, but that was a bit cheesy.)


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