Recommendations

rockfla

rockfla

Well-known member
Looking for recommendations for someone who does concours finishing on stock aluminum head and intake manifolds?? Thanks!!!


AS an asided, best to have them done after cleaning and surfacing????
 
Robert I have tried many many different processes over the years to restore aluminum to its original state. Different manufacturers had different looking finishes. The new vapor blasting is very nice but I prefer a wire wheel or brass on a bench grinder on some but a small brass brush or stainless along with scotchbright in the parts washer. A good acid wash first is a plus. I don’t glass bead if I want it original looking as it’s hard to reverse. I have NOS 33-35 heads and age has changed finish. So how do you judge exact original
 
Thanks for the post Tony. Gonna try a couple of easy clean methods first and see how they come out!!!
 
Thanks for the post Tony. Gonna try a couple of easy clean methods first and see how they come out!!!
 
Sandblast and Cerakote C series satin Nickel. I recently did this as it resists fuel staining and learned this from the Fordbarn when bored and stroked mentioned his uses it on Carburetors. The C series is air dry and requires no hardener.
 
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Disregard the car itself it’s a jalopy 36 convertible I’m working on


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35fordtn said:
Sandblast and Cerakote C series satin Nickel. I recently did this as it resists fuel staining and learned this from the Fordbarn when bored and stroked mentioned his uses it on Carburetors. The C series is air dry and requires no hardener.
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My God, Michael! That has to be the most authentic-looking RESTORED aluminum castings that I've ever seen. It is so refreshing to see a casting which HAS NOT been obviously bead-blasted and spray-bombed with clear. Could you possibly go into a little more detail about the actual process of doing the average intake, for instance? Many thanks!

Coop


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Look into tumbling media, a process for deburring aluminum parts after machining. I seen excellent results on concours Corvette alloy engine parts.
 
As mentioned Tumbling or as the Vette guys call it "reskinning" the cast aluminum pieces is the best looking method. There is one guy all the vette guys use for their Fuel injection parts. he qouted me $600 to do a pair of heads and a intake. I was just too cheap to pay that..

The Cerakote spray easy I spray it out of a $5 harbor freight gun. The C series does not need to be cured and is ready to spray. You need to keep it in a air tight container when done or it will go bad, and only spray a light coat.

Satin Nickel seems to be my favorite color for aluminum and Glacier Black for Model a carburetors and V8 carburetor bases

https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/C-124/satin-nickel

Reskinning or a coating is the only way to seal up the pores. Blasting cases the pores to bhe open and greasy finger prints and fuel stains easily.

Check this article too
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1105sr-restoring-vintage-aluminum-parts/
 
35fordtn said:
As mentioned Tumbling or as the Vette guys call it "reskinning" the cast aluminum pieces is the best looking method. There is one guy all the vette guys use for their Fuel injection parts. he qouted me $600 to do a pair of heads and a intake. I was just too cheap to pay that..

The Cerakote spray easy I spray it out of a $5 harbor freight gun. The C series does not need to be cured and is ready to spray. You need to keep it in a air tight container when done or it will go bad, and only spray a light coat.

Satin Nickel seems to be my favorite color for aluminum and Glacier Black for Model a carburetors and V8 carburetor bases

https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/C-124/satin-nickel

Reskinning or a coating is the only way to seal up the pores. Blasting cases the pores to bhe open and greasy finger prints and fuel stains easily.

Check this article too
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1105sr-restoring-vintage-aluminum-parts/
Click to expand...

Thank you. I also have one of those cheap HF guns. I'm going to give it a go. How much did it take to do the heads and intake? A pint?

Besides blasting, any other "special" prep before painting?
 
Tim Ayers said:
Thank you. I also have one of those cheap HF guns. I'm going to give it a go. How much did it take to do the heads and intake? A pint?

Besides blasting, any other "special" prep before painting?
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Tim
Check out youtube, there are several videos of people using it, I find IF i watch several, you get a feel for what seems to be the best process and result. I think a pint would be more than plenty to do a set of heads, intake, and the base for the oil fill/fuel pump stand. It says spray a lite enough coat to cover SO......I plan on getting the HF touch up spray gun!!!
 
Tim Ayers said:
Thank you. I also have one of those cheap HF guns. I'm going to give it a go. How much did it take to do the heads and intake? A pint?

Besides blasting, any other "special" prep before painting?
Click to expand...

NOOOO... the 4oz tester botle they sell was enough to do 7 carburetors 2 heads and 2 intakes. A pint would go a long ways.

The HF touchup gun works well as they stuff sprays thin. WEAR A RESPERATOR, this is some nasty stuff the C series isnt too bad but the H series that has to be oven cured is some nasty stuff
 
35fordtn said:
NOOOO... the 4oz tester botle they sell was enough to do 7 carburetors 2 heads and 2 intakes. A pint would go a long ways.

The HF touchup gun works well as they stuff sprays thin. WEAR A RESPERATOR, this is some nasty stuff the C series isnt too bad but the H series that has to be oven cured is some nasty stuff
Click to expand...

Ah. Perfect. I was hoping you would say the tester is good enough. I'll line up a bunch of stuff to do in one shot.
 
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Seth HVLP .... $9.95 at our store


Tim be sure you wrap tape around the lid after you use it or it will go bad since it is ready to spray
 
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