PaintShaker
Junior Member
The Pop-Out ignition seems to be a very scarce item. Is there a substitute switch that is reliable, looks good and is priced reasonably? I would appreciate any recommendations. Thanks.
Recommendations for an ignition switch
- Thread starter PaintShaker
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Ayers1
Well-known member
Snyders - Product Ignition Switch SWITCH POPOUT APPEARING A-11575-EM https://share.google/7IVO3Pen1PDY64JZd
This is what Snyders has. Looks like popout but isn't. I had to put tape across the back of it to keep it from shorting on the gas tank. It is a Nurex as stated above.
This is what Snyders has. Looks like popout but isn't. I had to put tape across the back of it to keep it from shorting on the gas tank. It is a Nurex as stated above.
Colorado kid
Junior Member
Same issue about shorting out in back until I insulated the back.
nkaminar
Well-known member
The switch that came with my car is a modern switch with an accessory position to the left and a running position to the right. I have it wired so that I can run everything except the ignition and fuel pump in the accessory position. (I have a Weber carburetor and thus the fuel pump.) So I can use the hazard lights or program the GPS without running the engine. (I have turn indicators with the hazard lights.) Sorry, I have no idea of the brand.
Bob from Northport
Well-known member
Contact Dick Crabtree. he is the ignition man.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The late style pop out was reproduced for a while, I think in Spain. There are a lot more originals out there than a person might think. There are two versions but both have variations. The early type used in 1928 & 29 is different in several ways from the late type used in 1930 & 31. One of the restorer series books from MAFCA has a very good article on all of them.
The late types made by NuRex can use the armored cable to look original or they can be wired with a long wire and an adapter to fit the distributor. In any case, it still needs a wire connecting to the breaker in some fashion. The switch can be wired to the terminal box or ammeter for power with another wire to the coil and a wire from the other coil terminal to the breaker. It works either way. Ford controlled the coil ground circuit with the Electrolock but it can be controlled either way by power or ground.
As folks have mentioned, there isn't a lot of room between the instrument panel and the gas tank/dash. Make sure to insulate well to prevent shorts no matter how it's wired.
The late types made by NuRex can use the armored cable to look original or they can be wired with a long wire and an adapter to fit the distributor. In any case, it still needs a wire connecting to the breaker in some fashion. The switch can be wired to the terminal box or ammeter for power with another wire to the coil and a wire from the other coil terminal to the breaker. It works either way. Ford controlled the coil ground circuit with the Electrolock but it can be controlled either way by power or ground.
As folks have mentioned, there isn't a lot of room between the instrument panel and the gas tank/dash. Make sure to insulate well to prevent shorts no matter how it's wired.
Klattu1929
Senior Member
I used the aftermarket switch without the accessory position from Mike's. Works very good. My switch shorted out to the gas tank, so I added a 1/8" spacer behind dash around gas gage. I was worried insulating the back of switch would wear thru.
Arthur1958
Junior Member
There also are the replacement armored switches without the pop-out feature supplied through Ford and aftermarket sources for many years. I have three of those, of which I got one actually to work, though not without difficulties. They do have some touchy grounding issues, which I think were shared by the real Electrolock versions; but, for what it’s worth, they are plentiful and usually cheap, and much easier to repair than most suspect.