rebuilt steering boxes

oljoe001

oljoe001

Member
Hi I have completely rebuilt five 2 tooth steering boxes all of which preform great. I have been using the new style needle bearing sector shaft housing with modern seal. ( also new bearings races worm gear and sector shaft )two of the boxes leak at the seal. has anyone had this problem with the new style housings? I am wondering if
they have machined them wrong? or could it be in the adjustment putting pressure on the seal? Any experienced box builders out there?
PS the 3 I have built for freinds have worked fine, just my 2 have leaked.lol
Thanks
Joe
 
Can't help you, but would suggest trying PenRite steering box lube available from restoration specialties, escondido, calif, do a search. Thick AND won't leak out. JMO
Paul in CT
 
You have to determine if the leak is from where theshaft goes through theseal, or from where the seal is installed in the housing, ---if it is from between the housing and theseal perhaps theseal was damaged during instrallation, of the bore of the housing was machined wrong(too rough) ---changing the seal and adding sealer to the seal housing interface shoud cure that problem.

If it is leaking between the sector shaft and the seal look gor sharp spots, and burrs that can cut the lip of the seal when it is installed ---the seal would have to be visibly off center to have that cause a problem with the slow rotational speed of a sector, but grooves and scratches in the sector shaft can cause leakage, another possibility is the bonding of the seal lip rubber to the seal housing ---too much play between the bearings and the sector could make it pump oil out if the seal isn't capable of keeping up with the movement ---I would think loose steering would be also noticed.

The key to fixing it is to find the exact point of leakage.
 
Kurt in NJ said:
You have to determine if the leak is from where theshaft goes through theseal, or from where the seal is installed in the housing, ---if it is from between the housing and theseal perhaps theseal was damaged during instrallation, of the bore of the housing was machined wrong(too rough) ---changing the seal and adding sealer to the seal housing interface shoud cure that problem.

If it is leaking between the sector shaft and the seal look gor sharp spots, and burrs that can cut the lip of the seal when it is installed ---the seal would have to be visibly off center to have that cause a problem with the slow rotational speed of a sector, but grooves and scratches in the sector shaft can cause leakage, another possibility is the bonding of the seal lip rubber to the seal housing ---too much play between the bearings and the sector could make it pump oil out if the seal isn't capable of keeping up with the movement ---I would think loose steering would be also noticed.

The key to fixing it is to find the exact point of leakage.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kurt, it is possible I damaged it. The one on my truck is the first one I built it it runs out like there is no seal. The steering box is tight steers very smooth. the other one that I put on my double a had a noticeable leak at the seal don't know if it was the housing or at the shaft. Oh well I guess it doesnt really matter I will just have to pull it out regardless. Just wondering if it was a common problem apperently not though.
Thank you
Joe
 
Allow me to ask this, Where or how does one adjust the thrust on this two gear ?? I can see the steering wheel move up an down with the side to side free play in the steering wheel. been tinkering to figure this out. some gear boxes show a screw for this, but I have not got one on my early 30 A
 
wildwilly said:
Allow me to ask this, Where or how does one adjust the thrust on this two gear ?? I can see the steering wheel move up an down with the side to side free play in the steering wheel. been tinkering to figure this out. some gear boxes show a screw for this, but I have not got one on my early 30 A
Click to expand...

Is your early 30 A maybe a 7 tooth box???? Just though I would ask.
 
0ef28117.jpg


Here's a picture of the 7 tooth steering. The long steering shaft is adjusted by removing shims under the bottom end plate held on by 4 bolts. The column and box are one piece.

The 2 tooth steering has a clamp, at the upper end of the gear box, which holds the column to the gear box. Just below the clamp is an adjusment bolt and lock nut, which is used to adjust the end play. DO NOT turn the bolt down tight as it can crack the bearing race. Be sure the clamping bolt is loosened before trying to adjust end play.

ba4b5c84.jpg


Here is a 2 tooth steering box with some odd grease fitting in place of the original..
 
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The very early 30 Canadian A,s used the 7 tooth box with a splined type 30 s-wheel. If you have that type,you will have to remove shims at lower shaft brg.
 
If you have a 7 and wish to keep it fine,but the 2 came out mid 30 and is a much better design and steers smoother I think,even if 7 is like new,the 2 seems better to me:cool:and the way to go if ya can:cool:
 
My 30 Roadster engine indicates it was built in the first few days of march and it has the two tooth steerig box. I haven't been able to check frame numbers yet but car appears to be origional.
 
The two tooth was first introduced in February 1929 but a lot of the 7 tooth boxes were still being installed into 1930. My unrestored 2-23-29 Tudor has the early 2 tooth box.
 
My 29 coupe has a 2 tooth. Not sure when in 29 it was built because is has a 30 engine in it. Have not checked the frame number.
 
Dana Barlow said:
If you have a 7 and wish to keep it fine,but the 2 came out mid 30 and is a much better design and steers smoother I think,even if 7 is like new,the 2 seems better to me:cool:and the way to go if ya can:cool:
Click to expand...

The 2-tooth is superior, but if you have a 29 you want to find a 2-tooth with the proper 29 upper column, and they are not so plentiful. I suspect this is why we see so many 28-29s with 2-tooth boxes and 30-31 steering wheels.
 
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