Rebuilt Flathead Problems.

Ok guys a small update. I have 3 different sets of valve springs taken from different 8ba's I have had.

Set #1-Length of 2.400" with 1 .060" shim at install height of 1.900" gives 55 lbs.

Set #2-Length of 2.200" with 4 .060" shims at install height of 1.900" gives 55 lbs.

Set #3-Length of 2.160" with 4 .060" shims at install height of 1.900"gives 50 lbs.

I got the installed height of 1.900" using the chevy valve with a normal spring retainer and keeper (not the rotator set up) in the 2nd groove on the valve stem. If Walt feels this grove will work without problem then thats good enough for me. So given the info above I should be able to use set #1 with 1 shim each per valve and get 55 lbs of seat pressure at the installed height. The only problem is 3 or 4 of the springs in this set are bowed or bent. Not sure how that happened but need to know if anyone has some 2.400" extra valve springs I could buy? I need about 4. Also when checking my retainers I found the one in the pics. I am going to need a couple of those as well. So if I can come up with a few good used springs and a couple retainers I should be able to reassemble my setup and get the pressure needed.

My guides came back from Gary (look great!) and he was nice enough to throw in some extra shims for me so if I can use the longer springs with just 1 shim I will be able to return the extras to him. Thanks guys!
 

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Gordon,

I've got a lot of this stuff laying around; I'll go up to my shop tomorrow with a caliper and see if I have what you need. If I don't have it, I'm sure someone else does. It looks like you are finally closing in on this.
 
Thanks Tubman. I appreciate the help! I think once I have all the valve parts assembled I'll be on the home stretch.
 
Ok Guys here is an update and file this one under "What I just learned!" Decided to start putting things back together today as the lower end and timing issues appear to be dealt with. So got my new gasket set. Rolled the motor over on the engine stand and put the oil pan gasket on. (I had previously pulled all the lifters and marked their location and set them aside so they wouldn't fall out.) Bolted the pan down using some silicon and torqued the bolts to 18 lbs.ft. Rolled her over and started bolting the timing cover on the front. Everything going good. Using anti seize on the stainless bolts. Get to the last one and pick it up and a washer bounces off the end of it and falls into the lifter galley and straight down a lifter bore and into the lower bowels of the engine! Arrrggghhhh!!! I think I heard it hit the oil pan? Finish up the timing cover and remove the clean out plate on the truck pan I have. Look around in there with a flashlight and don't see anything. Try squeezing a magnet in there and rolling it around to see if it picks up anything just in case this was a steel washer, but NOOOO, nothing. So guess what I get the joy of re doing tomorrow! I tell you if I didn't have ****** luck with this engine i would have no luck and right about now i am ready to turn it into a part of a coral reef here off the coast of NC!

I guess the good news is that I have a new set of valve springs on their way here and I should be able to get the valves back together and installed this coming week.
 
Well boys I dodged a bullet! When I removed the clean out on the oil pan last night the washer that I lost down a lifter hole had fallen out and I didn't know it. I had a shop rag on the floor under the engine stand to catch any oil drips from the motor and when I lowered the clean out the washer landed in it nice as you please, only very quietly so I didn't know it had. I sat down this morning and got ready to pull the oil pan. Looked down and there it was!! Wheeeww!! One for the home team!!
 
When I build any flathead engine the oil pan is always the last part I install. Theres still a number of other parts that at times can and will fall into the lower areas of the engine. Watch as you install the valve assembly's those two little little valve to spring retainer parts can fall out when you least expect it and guess where into the oil pan! Also have seen the pin used to hold the lifter for adjustment fall into the pan due to the open slots in the lifter. At times gravity can cause some extra work so I always leave the pan off.
 
I hear you Ronnieroadster! I am going to be extremely careful finishing up the work I need to do up top. Doing the oil pan last is a great idea. I will remember that. I was trying to make some progress while awaiting parts and figured as long as I was waiting... you know how it goes.
 
GordonC said:
I hear you Ronnieroadster! I am going to be extremely careful finishing up the work I need to do up top. Doing the oil pan last is a great idea. I will remember that. I was trying to make some progress while awaiting parts and figured as long as I was waiting... you know how it goes.
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I hear what your saying I to learned this lesson the hard way LOL
 
Yes they are B-O-B but I think I am just going to make sure all holes are covered or plugged before I do much more.
 
Gordon, since you've got things apart, I would also suggest adding the lock tab ring under the cam bolts. I noticed it was missing in your pictures. It looks like a square with tabs the bend up against the bolts to keep them in place.
 
Thanks Tim already took care of it. In the pics I just wanted to make sure it could only go on the end off the cam 1 way and once I was assured that was the case I put a new lock tab ring under it. Appreciate it!
 
Ok I need the advice of the experts.

My springs came in - thank you Gary! - and I am assembling my valves. The picture I have is of 2 different ways of assembling the chevy valves I have. All springs are new and measure 2.48". I was shooting for an installed valve spring height of 2.125" and with a .060" thick shim I had 65 lbs. pressure. The valve on the left has a 2.150" assembled height which should be good to go except for the discussion on if the rotators should be used or not and the lock is in the first groove on the valve.

I also assembled a second one. This time using a conventional retainer and new valve lock but this time I put it on the second groove of the chevy valve just to see the difference. On this valve I got about 2.170" with a .060" shim when assembled in the second groove. This valve may have a little less pressure but would probably be ok as well, if I can get over using the second grove.

Last I did this same valve with the normal retainer and new lock installed on the first groove of the chevy valve and got 2.400". So I would somehow need to make up .375 of an inch if I used the top groove on the chevy valve with a standard retainer.

SO have at it boys pick your poison and let me know what you think. I have not assembled anything else yet until I hear some opinions here.
 

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GordonC said:
Ok I need the advice of the experts.

My springs came in - thank you Gary! - and I am assembling my valves. The picture I have is of 2 different ways of assembling the chevy valves I have. All springs are new and measure 2.48". I was shooting for an installed valve spring height of 2.125" and with a .060" thick shim I had 65 lbs. pressure. The valve on the left has a 2.150" assembled height which should be good to go except for the discussion on if the rotators should be used or not and the lock is in the first groove on the valve.

I also assembled a second one. This time using a conventional retainer and new valve lock but this time I put it on the second groove of the chevy valve just to see the difference. On this valve I got about 2.170" with a .060" shim when assembled in the second groove. This valve may have a little less pressure but would probably be ok as well, if I can get over using the second grove.

Last I did this same valve with the normal retainer and new lock installed on the first groove of the chevy valve and got 2.400". So I would somehow need to make up .375 of an inch if I used the top groove on the chevy valve with a standard retainer.

SO have at it boys pick your poison and let me know what you think. I have not assembled anything else yet until I hear some opinions here.
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Just to make sure - you're measuring with the valve and guide in the block and the horseshoe clip in? Just wanted to make sure you weren't measuring "on the bench". :)
 
Bored&Stroked all numbers that I have were taken with an assembly in the block minus the spring with the horseshoe clip in place. Just because your questions makes me wonder I am going to check them one more time just to make sure I am working with the correct number on the correct groove with the correct keeper and lock.
 
Hey Gordon: What length are your Chevy valves? I'm real curious - just seems you have a LOT more installed spring height than I would expect.

When I used 4.911 stock length Chevy valves, to get to a 1.950 spring height with an Isky 185-G spring, I use a cut-down Crane spring retainer and about a .200 aluminum spacer at the top --- I figure I use about .350 - .400 of total spacer . . . but I'm going all the way down to 1.950 . . . which is .200 less than you.
 
Bored&Stoked I am in and out today and won't be able to check this out completely until late this evening or early tomorrow morning but I will get a measurement and post it up. I did a quick check of the installed height in between appointments today but all I did was confuse myself!
 
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