rebuilding zenith carburator

mebeached

Member
does anyone know if that ring at the end of the GVA valve needs to come off or stay on. I have seen it both ways in the books. dont know why it is on the GVA when you buy the part.
 
It's s'posed to be there, like a brake, to keep the GAV from turning on it's on, due to the butt NUMBING, Model A vibrations!!!---Bill W.
 
th anks guys for the info . In vol 1 of LES ANDREWS MODEL A FORD MECHANICS HANDBOOK HE SAID TO REMOVE AND DISCARD THIS RING. BUT OT IS A GOOD BOOK AND USE IT A LOT. guess you can not get it all correct.
 
It should be there. However some repo GAV valves are so tight you cannot turn them. That is why Les says to remove the ring. What I do is remove the ring and spread the feet with a putty knife to where the valve turns free. I open the ring slightly and put it back on.

Tom Endy
 
It should be there. However some repo GAV valves are so tight you cannot turn them. That is why Les says to remove the ring. What I do is remove the ring and spread the feet with a putty knife to where the valve turns free. I open the ring slightly and put it back on.

Tom Endy

I JUST did this and added a little gob of grease to the brass parts and the GAV is now S M O O T H.
 
I also just did this (yesterday). Tom Endy's advice is right-on. I put a little Permetex 2 on the housing threads just for assurance. BTW if your carb is a Zenith L30-1931 you need a 13/32" wrench for the housing: anything else rounds the edges on the collar. You can get a 13/32" wrench on EBay for about $5 with about $3 shipping. It's a small wrench and if you have or can obtain a 1950's or 1960's set of ignition wrenchs, you may find it there. 1928-L30 Zenith carb GAV housings take a 7/16" wrench.
 
Thanks Tom i had just printed your 17 page Carburetor restoration tips. Good stuff to know. I had a big back fire like a shot gun went off when i took my car for a short drive after a carburetor rebuild. I did not see a drip b4 i started after i stopped I saw a little drip.
 
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