rebuilding strongberg 97
- Thread starter ThomasN
- Start date
TerryOH
Well-known member
Do it yourself, there is only one special tool. Everything you need is available through Stromberg web site (Max) including the tool. An air compressor would be nice but not usually necessary. Because the Carb is yours you will learn something along the way and probably do the best job possible. If you have problems we are here or Max can assist with special machining.
Look, it depends on the level of "rebuild". If you are talking about cleaning and tossing in a kit, it is relatively simple. If you are talking about actually rebuilding the base and choke housings and shafts and getting the sealing surfaces flat and re-coloring and correcting defective threads, and verifying that everything is near perfect it can be much more extensive and expensive.
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ken ct
BANNED
Tomas,his chg is quite reasonable to say the least,if its done properly.Labor time to do these right is like 4 hrs labor for $150 so figure $37.50 per hr. Compare that with most garage's $90 per hr chg for doing any kind of repair work on a modern car.I would be leary of the quality of a $30 China kit most likely. OMO ken ct. JWL is also correct in his statement.!!
Charlie ny
BANNED
Thomas,
The jet wrench from Max Musgrove is essential. DO NOT assume the jets are correct until you check them for size. You must also determine that the power valve
does not leak and that it is the correct number. An essential item in any rebuild is
the removal of the emulsion tubes once the jets are removed.
Now to the base..................I think you have the idea.
These babies are basic but overlook one seemingly obscure detail and it'll
bite you in the ---.
Been bitten....Charlie ny
The jet wrench from Max Musgrove is essential. DO NOT assume the jets are correct until you check them for size. You must also determine that the power valve
does not leak and that it is the correct number. An essential item in any rebuild is
the removal of the emulsion tubes once the jets are removed.
Now to the base..................I think you have the idea.
These babies are basic but overlook one seemingly obscure detail and it'll
bite you in the ---.
Been bitten....Charlie ny
Ford coupe
Senior Member
Just finishing one and after the trouble i had $150 is a bargain.Getting jets and emulsion tubes out is quite a challenge to say the least andthe kit for $30 is just a basic and does not include main jets or EM tubes if you need them so $150 is not that bad if done right.
Roger/Sacramento
Senior Member
When I did mine the washers under the plugs for the jets were too big in diameter and didn't seat right. Leaked like a sieve. Could have caused a fire.
Do you have a tap set? If so, it is very easy to make an elumision tube puller. I also have Max's air compressor blow out tool and his jet wrench that I'd lone you.
I'll take picts. of the elusion tube puller I made. I forget what tap I used, but I'll figure it out after measuring the thread/pitch of it.
As JWL said, a lot depends on the condition of your core. Uncle Max has offered before (I didn't take him up on it yet) to machine my Stromberg parts and get them ready and send them back for me to assemble.
It seemed like a good middle ground of not paying full boat for a rebuild yet, still having a hand in doing as much as I can on my rebuild.
Let me know if you'd like to borrow my Stromberg tools and I'll get them out to you on Monday.
Tim
Robert Dip
Senior Member
To remove the imulsion tube, use a #6-32 tap....did quite a few with 100% success...so far. I also soak the carbs in a solvant for a day before pulling out parts and even jets....gauled up threads once....bad move doing it dry. Most important, stay away from the cheap kits...bad deal...stick with the 'real' new Stromberg replacement parts. Robert
Here you go. Max's tools are the air compressor blow out thing and jet wrench. My Mick the Mope tool is what I made to pull out the emulsion tubes. As Robert stated, tap them with a #6-32 thread. Thread in bolt and pull them out.
You'll need to remove the jets first.
Attachments
ken ct
BANNED
6x32 tap is correct. Simpler way is run tap in jet end,leave tap in there and from other end slide in a round steel rod and just tap with a small hammer and emultion tube and tap will all come out . Just make sure they go back in with all the holes faceing the rite way. Carfully check the 2 or 4 holes are NOT squashed down. They can be redrilled with a small bit.Same size as the others on the tube. No need for washers and screw as some guys use.The end holes get mashed when the MJ is tightened too much. ken ct.Your also going to have to modify a flat blade screw driver with a cut-off wheel slot cut in the middle of it to remove the power valve and not push the PV pin downthat sticks up down there. good luck. ken ct.
ThomasN
Senior Member
Thanks Tim, I got a members help and expertise already lined up
Thanks again
uncle max
Well-known member
It's a tool I made up... Screws into the powervalve hole. I fill it with brake cleaner or alcohol and give it 100 lbs of air. Evacuates any debris or small critters that might've set up light-housekeeping in the discharge circuit. Good way of visually checking the discharge jets.
ken ct
BANNED
Its a blow out adaptor that screws into the PV hole [after its out] that blows out the 2 curved squirters of any junk. Uncle Max makes and sells them. I have one works perfectly. Theres no other way to clean them out.You cant poke a wire through them too much curve to them. Believe me ive tried.Use a rubber tipped blow gun tip to use it and hi pressure. ken ct. SUPER TOOL.