Rebuilding starters

D

Dennis/CT

Senior Member
Has anyone had luck soldering the fields to the starter button? I'm in the middle of rebuilding my starter and can't get the solder to stick to the new button. I have the hottest soldering gun I can find. All tips will be helpful. Thanks Dennis/CT
 
You need an old soldering copper that you heat with a torch.

Bob
 

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I've read on the forum that a 250W soldering gun is recommended if going electric. I unsoldered the button from a starter by heating heating the button with a small torch and thought it may work when resoldering. May just try Bob's idea with the use of a soldering copper.

Rich
 
Polish the area and make sure there is no oil on the parts. if you use a tourch do not let the flame touch the area you want the solder to stick to as the flame will leave a film that makes the solder not stick. Use rosin core solder do not ever use acid core or soldering acid as it will cause many problems on electricial parts.
 
i have found that a 600 watt iron works much better--almost instant, with the 300 watt it took a long time to get the connection up to temperature.

A large soldering copper will work also if you can get it hot enough.

A torch will burn the insulation.
 
I have a snap-on butane that has 6 diff. tips to make it an iron , or use the open flame .

It will do tiny circuit board work or a radiator tank just turn up or down.

I haven't used my electric in years . Its about the size of a good cigar .


Pop's
 
I used a mapp torch to solder a penny on my button to raise the height and fill in the groove that was etched by the copper strip in the starter button. I used plumbers solder and flux worked great.
 
Jamie86 said:
A mapp torch will burn a lot hotter than a propane torch will, be careful not to get it to hot, good luck.
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Propane would not get it hot enough to melt the solder as it was a cool day. Mapp is hotter than propane but not as hot a my acetylene torch. Practiced on the penny first by tinning it to see how quickly it would heat up and be bright when cool. Very fast so don't leave it on long.

I've got some NOS Ford 91A-10069 brushes in the original box ready to give to my rebuild guy this winter. They even have the Ford script and HH on the brushes.

BTW to the OP good luck with your rebuild, I took one apart and still can't figure out how to put it back together. Thats why I have someone else do it for me :)
 
I have just done one down in the shed ,no problems.
I use an old copper soldering iron that is about 1.1/4 square and 2 in long.I heat that up with my oxy set .
I used a small clamp to pull the field tangs into the slot then soldered them in.
Lawrie
 
Plumbers solder flux is corrosive. i hoped you cleaned it up really well afterward.

You should use a good rosin non-corrosive solder flux instead.
 
awander said:
Plumbers solder flux is corrosive. i hoped you cleaned it up really well afterward.

You should use a good rosin non-corrosive solder flux instead.
Click to expand...
99% of plumbers use a flux called nokarode. its not a acid, nor corrosive. plumber for 15 yrs here
 
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