Rebuild Spec for 41 3/4 T ******

4

411Ton

Senior Member
I have what I believe is called a "Timken Split Axle differential. Here is the carrier. After the water drained out, no oil to be seen, I found the bearings rusty, unsure about inside the differential. I would like to rebuild with new bearings, but don't know where to obtain specs, instructions, etc. Any pointers?
IMG_7700.jpg

IMG_7701.jpg

IMG_7699.jpg
 
Get a shop manual reprint, step by step directions. And contact Chuck Mantiglia of Chucks Trucks. He will have all the bearings, gaskets and seals you will need.
 
I have been looking for something called a Shop Manual, and could only find a 32-41 Ford/Mercury Service Manual... although it called itself a shop manual. Has no instructions for rebuild, only general service. What book are you referring to?
 
I just got a box of goodies from Chuck for my front axle, which is the same Timken 51524 as the rear.

Pictured is the pile of pinion bearings. There is one called the pinion pilot bearing. That will need to be replaced, even if not rusty. Mine looked good, but the race was pitted. If that fails, it will most likely ruin your axle. You can see its home in the picture.
 
Last edited:
Other pictures. I’m guessing you would need one for trucks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1330.jpg
    IMG_1330.jpg
    45.8 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1331.jpg
    IMG_1331.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 15
Ford had a special tool for pulling pinion assembly. I made one from a 6 “ square of 1/2” plate and some all thread. Some tension on the allthread and some propane heat, and out it popped.

Chuck is great to deal with. Good prices, great advice. He knows these old Ford trucks. If you have the standard 4.86:1 ratio, and want something less steep, he has kits to put 4.11.1 ratio in that axle.
 
Last edited:
I also have the carrier bearings and races, as well as the king pin bearings. The carrier races can be tricky getting out of the housing, I just welded a bead along the inside of race. After it cooled, it popped out no problem.

In the process of doing a final cleaning of the inside and getting the whole works set up on bench for assembly. Most likely you will need a press to insert pinion assembly into housing when you get to that point.
 
I just called and Chuck was super helpful, Thanks!
No further responses to this thread, as I am NOT going to attempt this job :)
 
"No further responses to this thread, as I am NOT going to attempt this job :)"


A wise decision. 1952 Henry's reply is spot on. The only thing lacking is the need for an infinite amount of patience. I opted to install Chuck's 4:11 gears and that effort generated a lot of heartburn....

user_offline.gif
 
I know you said you weren’t going to tackle this, but I would suggest getting a gallon of Rust 911. It is pricey per gallon, but one gallon makes 16 of solution. If you don’t have a bead blaster, you will find this stuff invaluable. Not bad, and it is effective. If you have a way to keep container warm, so much the better. Drop the differential carrier in the solution and leave it alone for awhile. At least you will see what you have after rinsing it off.
 
Last edited:
My pinion puller, if you can imagine all-thread with a nut and large washer resting against plate on the bottom side. The pinion yoke nut is taken off, yoke removed, then plate out into place and pinion nut tightened against it. Then tighten nuts on all thread, both ends of all thread are set on pinion flange. My test mule required no heat, the front axle wanted some. Ive made all sorts of pullers to meet my needs. Stubborn stuff requires high strength all-thread from McMaster Carr. These were accomplished with hardware store offerings.

You don’t need to invest in high dollar, high fallutin’ Ford tools to do this. As a farm kid who grew up learning the much maligned “farmer fiixes”; with the help of this site, the HAMB, Chuck, and FTE, I do all right.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1332.jpg
    IMG_1332.jpg
    48.3 KB · Views: 4
Last edited:
Almost forgot a shout out to YouTube. Made a new battery tray with hand tools. A planishing hammer made from an old leaf spring helped to smooth it out. Had fun in the process

Taught myself how to correctly restore carburetors with plating and chromate finishes. Don’t know your skill set, but curiousity goes a long ways…
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0391.jpg
    IMG_0391.jpg
    35.4 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_0134.jpeg
    IMG_0134.jpeg
    55.5 KB · Views: 11
Chuck's is about the only support for R&P sets for the Timken Detroit axles. Some of the later units are impossible to find new parts for. Good used is as good as those get. Timken bearings should be available. Seals may have to be matched but there are still some Chicago Rawhide seals around. A person just needs the part numbers.

The transmission should be a T8 or T9 4-speed. Ford used them for years. They aren't synchronized so a lot of folks don't like them. There are a lot of them out there,

Some Folks convert the rear end to a Dana 60 or other truck type axle just to get better ratios.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top