Pete
BANNED
I have had 4 calls in the last 3 months about what parts to put in a "better than average" street engine.
For what it is worth, here is what worked for us when we used to do an ocassional street engine. Other stuff would work but this was a good combo with what was and still is available for reasonable prices.
As with anything, costs vary with your skill as a trader, bargainer and scrounger.
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Formula for budget go fast street engine with mild manners.
To build this engine you must first have a reasonable knowledge of performance engines and be willing to do any work you can, yourself.
This is a parts list only. Not a "how to do". These parts if assembled properly will produce a 200+ hp naturally aspirated street engine that will run on pump gas. This has been dyno proven.
Parts required:
8ba block. 3 3/8 bore.
4" Merc crank stroked to 4 1/8 with EARLY type cam drive gear and slinger.
One front crank damper as needed to match ignition clearance.
One set each of rod, main and cam bearings.
Reconditioned and shot peened 21A rods if you can negotiate a price cheaper than a new set of SCAT rods. Weigh cost of 21A rods and bearings against SCAT rods and bearings. Go cheap, both are good.
Ross street pistons with pins. Specify FLAT TOP and ZERO DECK HEIGHT for 4 1/8 stroke.
Totalseal gas ported low tension rings.
The cam of your choice. The "lumpiness" will depend on how mild or wild you want the drivability to be. BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR CHOICE HERE OR YOU WILL BE CHANGING IT TO A MILDER ONE.
One EARLY type cam drive gear, bolts and lock plate set.
One set of reconditioned stock hollow steel lifters.
One set of 185 springs, retainers and locks.
One set of stock 8ba valve guides with outside knurled.
One set of 8ba stock valves. (lightened)
One Aviaid 4 stage dry sump oil system.
One dry sump pan with windage tray.
One set of Edelbrock or Sharp heads with filled domes.
One 4 carb Edelbrock intake manifold with "48" carbs.
One computer type Jacobs or MSD battery ignition OR one H&C magneto. (note: type of ignition will determine model of cam)
One set of 2 inch "W" type headers with center baffle.
One aluminum SBC flywheel. (cheapest way to go)
One Hayes diaphragm clutch.
Two copper big bore head gaskets.
One pan gasket set with crank seals.
One front cover gasket.
One ignition gasket if H&C mag used.
One lead plate if H&C mag used.
One set of SOLID copper sparkplug gaskets.
For what it is worth, here is what worked for us when we used to do an ocassional street engine. Other stuff would work but this was a good combo with what was and still is available for reasonable prices.
As with anything, costs vary with your skill as a trader, bargainer and scrounger.
==================
Formula for budget go fast street engine with mild manners.
To build this engine you must first have a reasonable knowledge of performance engines and be willing to do any work you can, yourself.
This is a parts list only. Not a "how to do". These parts if assembled properly will produce a 200+ hp naturally aspirated street engine that will run on pump gas. This has been dyno proven.
Parts required:
8ba block. 3 3/8 bore.
4" Merc crank stroked to 4 1/8 with EARLY type cam drive gear and slinger.
One front crank damper as needed to match ignition clearance.
One set each of rod, main and cam bearings.
Reconditioned and shot peened 21A rods if you can negotiate a price cheaper than a new set of SCAT rods. Weigh cost of 21A rods and bearings against SCAT rods and bearings. Go cheap, both are good.
Ross street pistons with pins. Specify FLAT TOP and ZERO DECK HEIGHT for 4 1/8 stroke.
Totalseal gas ported low tension rings.
The cam of your choice. The "lumpiness" will depend on how mild or wild you want the drivability to be. BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR CHOICE HERE OR YOU WILL BE CHANGING IT TO A MILDER ONE.
One EARLY type cam drive gear, bolts and lock plate set.
One set of reconditioned stock hollow steel lifters.
One set of 185 springs, retainers and locks.
One set of stock 8ba valve guides with outside knurled.
One set of 8ba stock valves. (lightened)
One Aviaid 4 stage dry sump oil system.
One dry sump pan with windage tray.
One set of Edelbrock or Sharp heads with filled domes.
One 4 carb Edelbrock intake manifold with "48" carbs.
One computer type Jacobs or MSD battery ignition OR one H&C magneto. (note: type of ignition will determine model of cam)
One set of 2 inch "W" type headers with center baffle.
One aluminum SBC flywheel. (cheapest way to go)
One Hayes diaphragm clutch.
Two copper big bore head gaskets.
One pan gasket set with crank seals.
One front cover gasket.
One ignition gasket if H&C mag used.
One lead plate if H&C mag used.
One set of SOLID copper sparkplug gaskets.
