Rear wheel bearings - Timken part number

Do you mean the outer,or hub bearing? Or,the differential bearings?I think the numbers Gary listed are for the differential.There is no cup for the outer wheel,or hub bearing.Unless something has changed the outer bearings were not available through Timkin.Years ago the bearing distributer here told me that he could get them through Timkin,but they were not a Timkin product.Things may have changed.
 
Keith True said:
Do you mean the outer,or hub bearing? Or,the differential bearings?I think the numbers Gary listed are for the differential.There is no cup for the outer wheel,or hub bearing.Unless something has changed the outer bearings were not available through Timkin.Years ago the bearing distributer here told me that he could get them through Timkin,but they were not a Timkin product.Things may have changed.
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correct! my mistake.Rear wheel bearing-roller bearing that rides in the rear hub?
 
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Hyatt was the original manufacturer of Model A rear wheel bearings.

Recently I researched wheel bearings for the V8 1936 on. See https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=16&ved=2ahUKEwi0oqq2gfLjAhVkvFkKHTonBjs4ChAWMAV6BAgAEAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.earlyfordv8.org%2Fforum%2Ffileattachments%2FFord%2520Seals%2520and%2520Bearings.doc&usg=AOvVaw1oI264P3sQX5E5B8rhdDPQ which is a PDF which shows the original Ford part number for Model A which is [FONT=&quot]Bearing B-1225-A[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Searching the underline, I come to a Fordbarn entry https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194681[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Much to be seen here including original bearings, NOS bearings, good modern replacements, and junque modern replacements.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Taking the RBC 00536 Interchange Bearing of reference from the above Fordbarn posting and inserting it as a search term, I come to a list of interchanges. http://www.kakapart.com/search/defaultsearch/rbc 00536[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Taking the first entry from this short list (L&S Bearing 00536) I click this and come to a larger list of 19 (!) interchanges - including the original Ford numbering in 7 variants - which in my view is confirmation of fit/form/function.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]But not necessarily life.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The interchange list does not list vendors, only manufacturers name. Some (or all) of these may be defunct.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Joe K
[/FONT]
 
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Most modern replacement bearings have soft end plates and will not last.
The best solution is a good used original Ford or Hyatt bearing.

John
 
Repair kits sold by the vendors are of poor quality - all of them regardless of where they are made. I'm about to do away with the Ford arrangement all together. I'll be using new modern cylindrical roller bearings (2 each side) grafted into the hub and onto the end of the trumpet. Bearings are 50 x 80 x16mm with a 10mm spacer between them. I know of people who have used ball bearings but I don't think they wil be ideal because the end float of the axle will overload them - they ae not a thrust bearing. The roller bearing will allow a bit of end play without disaster. I belive that is why Henry used rollers.
 
I know of people who have used ball bearings but I don't think they will be ideal because the end float of the axle will overload them - they are not a thrust bearing.
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Standard ball bearings, 6200 series, are not designed to take side loading, 7200 series (angular contact) ball bearings are designed to take side loading. They might be an option.
 
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katy said:
Standard ball bearings, 6200 series, are not designed to take side loading, 7200 series (angular contact) ball bearings are designed to take side loading. They might be an option.
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I quite agree that ball bearings are not suitable but angular contact bearings require accurate setup. That's why I'm going for cylindrical roller bearings and leaving management of the thrust to Henry's solution in the middel of the diff. I think they will handle a bit of end play in the axles just like the original bearings did.
Today, I took the hubs etc apart and found I can squeeze 3 of the bearings in there - so I will. That gives me even greater confidence this will work.
 
Synchro909 said:
I quite agree that ball bearings are not suitable but angular contact bearings require accurate setup. That's why I'm going for cylindrical roller bearings and leaving management of the thrust to Henry's solution in the middel of the diff. I think they will handle a bit of end play in the axles just like the original bearings did.
Today, I took the hubs etc apart and found I can squeeze 3 of the bearings in there - so I will. That gives me even greater confidence this will work.
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Do you have a part number for those bearings you plan on using?
 
The original rear wheel bearings had grooves in the rollers. The junk quality replacement bearings I have encountered had rollers with no grooves. They fail very quickly and are worthless.
 
Today, I took the hubs etc apart and found I can squeeze 3 of the bearings in there - so I will. That gives me even greater confidence this will work.
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This rather like the transmission restorer's "countershaft" trick of replacing the two Timken needle bearing and a spacer with THREE Timken needle bearings.

Better support ALWAYS wins the long game.

Joe K
 
Back in the day, the spacer was likely cheaper for Henry to put in the transmission than another bearing.
 
denniskliesen said:
Do you have a part number for those bearings you plan on using?
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I have them on order and will post the numbers for you when I get them. Strangely, there are two suppliers. One is Japanese (FBJ) and the other, German (***). They are at opposite ends of the price scale.
 
Looking around online I see that cylindrical roller bearings are available in single or multiple row. I'm wondering how the multiple row would work, rather than multiple single row.
 

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The original rear wheel bearings were made with spiral grooves in the roller elements. The material is also softer than the current repos. The repos do not have the spirals and are very hard and tend to wear the axle housing hubs. The original design was an overkill and many of the original bearings have survived in serviceable condition. I see them at swap meets all the time. I recommend using only the originals.

Tom Endy
 
Many thanks Tom - Sound advise for a touring A

Thank you Tom, same good advise some club members with this experience gave me. The bearings in my old iron drums were doing just fine. Originals with the spiral grove in each roller. I'm saving them for the new cast iron drums.
Jim G. GBMAFC
 
Tom Endy said:
The original rear wheel bearings were made with spiral grooves in the roller elements. The material is also softer than the current repos. The repos do not have the spirals and are very hard and tend to wear the axle housing hubs. The original design was an overkill and many of the original bearings have survived in serviceable condition. I see them at swap meets all the time. I recommend using only the originals.

Tom Endy
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Tom, with my conversion, the rollers will not run on the axle housing hubs. They are a complete bearing with inner and outer tracks.
I'd be happy to use the original setup if the new hubs or the repair sleeves were of decent quality and decent rollers were available. It is a very different scene over here and the parts you guys take for granted are not to be seen. I've been to swap meets and not seen any Model A stuff at all.
I intend doing my conversion in such a way that should the new bearings not prove durable enough, they can be replaced easily, even roadside.
 
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