Rear spring spreader

Conaway2

Conaway2

Well-known member
Has anyone used the Ecklers spring spreader ??

Years ago, I used a homemade one with2 pieces of galvanized pipe and threaded stock in the middle with nuts and washers. It worked, but was tricky to use because the threaded stock had to bend over the banjo. Not sure I want to do that again.

Thanks - Jim
 
The rear spring is a widow maker. Definitely use a full length, quality spreader. Did not use the Eckler tool, but it looks pretty good and I would try it. Extreme caution is warranted !!
 
Thanks all for your comments ! I’ve ordered the Eckler’s spreader via eBay - free shipping and half the price of others I;ve seen online. Snyder’s appears to sell one that looks like the Eckler’s, but does not h ave free shipping. I’ll follow up after I receive the spreader and have a chance to use it.

Jim
 
Conaway2 said:
Has anyone used the Ecklers spring spreader ??

Years ago, I used a homemade one with2 pieces of galvanized pipe and threaded stock in the middle with nuts and washers. It worked, but was tricky to use because the threaded stock had to bend over the banjo. Not sure I want to do that again.

Thanks - Jim
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Yes, I’ve never ever seen one before much less used one but I bought it and used it. Piece of cake!
 
Conaway2 said:
Thanks all for your comments ! I’ve ordered the Eckler’s spreader via eBay - free shipping and half the price of others I;ve seen online. Snyder’s appears to sell one that looks like the Eckler’s, but does not h ave free shipping. I’ll follow up after I receive the spreader and have a chance to use it.

Jim
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Jim, be sure you oil/grease the threads before using. Makes it a lot easier
 
J19FoN7.jpg


If you are handy you can run one up...schedule 80 tubing,1" grade 8 all thread,7018 stick welded,single stitch,triple pass..any kind of stored energy can kill,not just tensioned springs
 
Mine was made from 1 1/2" chrome moly scrap, probably schedule 40, or there about. I also used 1" threaded rod. It works well! Don't try 3/4" It will bend. Almost took my leg off! Sorry, I can't post pics!
Terry
 
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I don't use a spreader. With the spring disassembled it is fairly easy to install the main leaf by itself. Then simply reassemble the spring. I am doing this now myself. My reason for this is I am installing a spring with reversed eyes and the spreader won't work.
 
I vote for the porta power. That way I can spread the spring and stand a few feet away.

John
 
I have used a porta-power for years. You need an adapter to get around the banjo but they are available commercially now. They have slip on adapters so you can spread a reversed eye spring also.
 
I use weight in the back of the vehicle and a short piece of 2X4 between the spring and axle housing. Simple and inexpensive.
 
Whatever method you use, be sure to wrap a safety chain around everything. It doesn't take but a minute and you never know what can happen.
 
katy said:
I use weight in the back of the vehicle and a short piece of 2X4 between the spring and axle housing. Simple and inexpensive.
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That’s interesting. By any chance, do you have any pictures?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s interesting. By any chance, do you have any pictures?
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Sorry, no pictures, I don't usually think of taking pictures when I'm working on something, I think of it after the fact.
 
It’s safer not to remove the spring attached to the rear end. Remove the rear end then remove rear spring. Wrap the spring with a chain before removing from car
 
The subject of the rear spring comes up often on this forum and from some of the responses posted it becomes apparent there are still people in the Model A hobby that do not believe the rear spring is lethal.

I have been overhauling rear axle assemblies for about 35 years and have heard first hand several horror stories. Believe me the rear spring on a Model A Ford can be lethal and it deserves proper respect.

The attached article describes the proper way a rear spring should be handled.

Also attached is a photo of a broken shackle. Some of you may be aware that several of us are in the process of restoring a 1930 Tudor for my 14-year old grandson. We began the process in early March 2020 when we acquired the car. One the first thing we did was pull the rear end for restoration. When we removed the left shackle we found one of the shackle bolts broken in half. Had we pulled the rear end with the spring attached the unrestrained spring could have easily taken flight and injured anyone in its path.

The question may be asked, how does a shackle bolt get broken? My theory is that whoever last installed the shackles tightened the nuts down tight. The nuts should be pulled down tight to ensure the shackle is fully seated, then the nuts should be backed off a turn before inserting the cotter pins. The purpose is to allow the shackles to pivot when going over a bump, otherwise they could be twisted off, which I believe is what happened.

Tom Endy
 

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I was watching the Victoria Restoration on You Tube and I noticed the rear end sitting there. Only thing holding the spring together is the spring clamps. Center bolt is gone. Yikes
 

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