Rear Spring Safety, Tube Shocks
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Phil Brown
Well-known member
Defiantly use a spring spreader if you are going to do any work disconecting the rear spring, and still be very careful.
My 31 pick-up has factory shocks that were rebuilt years ago and they ride well and do there job fine. My 31 coupe has modern tube type shocks that ride well and do there job fine also.
The differance is cost and the availability of rebuildable cores for factory type shocks
They both work good and are way better than no shocks
My 31 pick-up has factory shocks that were rebuilt years ago and they ride well and do there job fine. My 31 coupe has modern tube type shocks that ride well and do there job fine also.
The differance is cost and the availability of rebuildable cores for factory type shocks
They both work good and are way better than no shocks
Joe K
Well-known member
I first dismounted a rear spring by putting blocks of wood under the clevis, and putting cordwood in the back of my Model A pickup.
It took a LOT of wood to eventually get to the point where the clevis were "loose" enough to hammer out - and there always is that sense about all that weight on top of you. What if a block of wood slips out?
And, of course, now that the axle is off what about undoing the u-bolts - what if the center bolt is broken? (common - according to Dad.)
I did have sense enough to "ease" into undoing the U-bolts and see how exactly the axle was handling it. Turns out my center bolt was NOT broken.
So now to undo the center bolt. Mind you this is not like putting in a NEW bolt where they give you extra thread and you're supposed to "compress" the spring as part of the assembly.
Spring flat between the jaws of a large vise. Held using blocks of wood as stand-off to allow "undoing" the center bolt with two wrenches. Nut removed - now slowly undo the vise relaxing the pre-load on the spring.
And suddenly the spring stack "squirms" and leaf No 4 launches and hits the dining room floor above, other leaves exploding sideways and raining down on my benchtop and personal space.
POW! Rattle, rattle, clang. Mom: "Joe - what was that? Are you alright?"
"Yeah Mom, I'm fine. Sorry about the noise."
I was a little shaky, but my voice didn't reveal it. Sometimes its better not to say too much to a Mom.
Lucky me is more like it.
NOW I have a proper spring spreader made with 3/4" welded pipe fittings and 1" allthread.
Joe K
It took a LOT of wood to eventually get to the point where the clevis were "loose" enough to hammer out - and there always is that sense about all that weight on top of you. What if a block of wood slips out?
And, of course, now that the axle is off what about undoing the u-bolts - what if the center bolt is broken? (common - according to Dad.)
I did have sense enough to "ease" into undoing the U-bolts and see how exactly the axle was handling it. Turns out my center bolt was NOT broken.
So now to undo the center bolt. Mind you this is not like putting in a NEW bolt where they give you extra thread and you're supposed to "compress" the spring as part of the assembly.
Spring flat between the jaws of a large vise. Held using blocks of wood as stand-off to allow "undoing" the center bolt with two wrenches. Nut removed - now slowly undo the vise relaxing the pre-load on the spring.
And suddenly the spring stack "squirms" and leaf No 4 launches and hits the dining room floor above, other leaves exploding sideways and raining down on my benchtop and personal space.
POW! Rattle, rattle, clang. Mom: "Joe - what was that? Are you alright?"
"Yeah Mom, I'm fine. Sorry about the noise."
I was a little shaky, but my voice didn't reveal it. Sometimes its better not to say too much to a Mom.
Lucky me is more like it.
NOW I have a proper spring spreader made with 3/4" welded pipe fittings and 1" allthread.
Joe K
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nkaminar
Well-known member
The tube shocks work great on my Fordor. The ones that come in the kits from the vendors like Snyder's have about the right amount of dampening. That said, the original shocks were very good and adjustable, but now are very expensive.
Probably the safest way to remove the rear spring is with the axle. If it does not come apart when removed from under the car, put two heavy C clamps on either side of the center bolt before you do anything else. Then you can use the spreader to remove the shackles.
Update, more info: The shocks from Snyders and probably from the other vendors, have different rates up and down. The compression has less resistance that the extension. This limits the rebound. They are not pressurized shocks which are more suited for heaver cars.
Probably the safest way to remove the rear spring is with the axle. If it does not come apart when removed from under the car, put two heavy C clamps on either side of the center bolt before you do anything else. Then you can use the spreader to remove the shackles.
Update, more info: The shocks from Snyders and probably from the other vendors, have different rates up and down. The compression has less resistance that the extension. This limits the rebound. They are not pressurized shocks which are more suited for heaver cars.
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Klattu1929
Senior Member
I installed tube shocks, bought the kit that clamps onto the front axle rather than drilling the axel, and around the rear axle. Had no issues, did readjust the rear shock tube angle a bit for more clearance. Work very well.
updraught
Well-known member
Mono tube shocks usually run high pressure gas, like Bilstein. Double wall shocks like Koni run low pressure. Not sure why.
Bilstein are usually considered to be a bit harsher than Koni.
Foam cell shocks have a bit of gym mat in them instead of gas, and cool slightly better due to having oil all around the inside.
Koni Special D put Koni on the map with old harsh riding sports cars running heavy springs.
They have very little, to no compression resistance, and can be adjusted real hard on rebound.
The main thing a shock dose is control rebound, that is, the letting go of the spring after a bump.
I've just won a three year fight over shocks that burst seven days after fitting on a 4wd.
These were bypass shocks where an adjustable tube by-passes the shock internally.
The springs they supplied were to weak to allow this to work properly.
Bilstein are usually considered to be a bit harsher than Koni.
Foam cell shocks have a bit of gym mat in them instead of gas, and cool slightly better due to having oil all around the inside.
Koni Special D put Koni on the map with old harsh riding sports cars running heavy springs.
They have very little, to no compression resistance, and can be adjusted real hard on rebound.
The main thing a shock dose is control rebound, that is, the letting go of the spring after a bump.
I've just won a three year fight over shocks that burst seven days after fitting on a 4wd.
These were bypass shocks where an adjustable tube by-passes the shock internally.
The springs they supplied were to weak to allow this to work properly.
Phil Brown
Well-known member
Gas charged shocks ride a bit too stiff in most cases on a car of a model A's weight and spring rate. A good Non-gas shock that works well on the A is the ones made for the older VW bugs (per 66) and even better are the shorter version that have an operating length that is easer to fit in an A
Try Empi #9650 oil filled (non-gas) 9 3/4" closed and 14 5/8" open
The Empi #9652 is non-gas for a stock VW 10 1/2" closed and 16 1/4" open
Try Empi #9650 oil filled (non-gas) 9 3/4" closed and 14 5/8" open
The Empi #9652 is non-gas for a stock VW 10 1/2" closed and 16 1/4" open