rear spring replacement

[MrTube]

Looking into replacing the rear spring on our 31 pickup.

I'm curious what i'm getting my self into and how involved this will be? Any information on installation and special tools needed would be greatly appreciated.


Chris J.

 

[31Tudor]

Chris, also going on is a thread about removing the rear end. This explains how to pull the rear end, which I would do and have done to replace the spring. Your are best to use a rear spring spreader, local club may have one in a tool crib. You will need a couple of 4 -6 " blocks of 2x4 to put under the rear spring shackles, when you start to spread the spring. I have also removed and replaced a rear spring wrapping a chain around the spring and differential attached to a jack and you can compress the spring. The jack way is not the recommended way and you want pretty heavy chain or you will be wearing the spring. The spring spreader designed for this really does work great.

 

[Tom Endy]

You want to give that rear spring its due respect because it can be lethal. People have been injured messing with a rear spring and not realizing the tension packed into it.

The safest way is to obtain a proper spring spreader, one that hooks against both shackle bosses. Have the rear axle housings sitting on jack stands and put a floor jack under the banjo. Spread the spring sufficiently to be able to remove the shackles. Lower the rear end down with the floor jack. Collapse the spring spreader and remove it. The rear spring is now safe as all the tension has been removed. Unhook the two U-bolt assemblies and remove the spring.

Install the spring in the reverse manner. Be sure that the square headed center bolt slips into the mating hole in the cross member. This centers it and locks it in place. It helps to put a chalk mark on the cross member and at the center of the spring under the bolt head.

Once you have the spring secured with the two U-bolt assemblies put the spring spreader back in and crank it out to match up with the shackle bosses on the rear end.

It is not safe to remove a rear end from a car with the spring still attached, even though people do it all the time. The spring is under a tremendous amount of tension and the only thing then holding all the tension is the single center bolt that was not designed to hold that much tension. If it happens to be 80 years old and rusted it can let go and allow the leaves to fly 20 feet in the air and take your head with it if it is in the way.

Work safely
Tom Endy

 

[MrTube]

Thanks for the responses!


Will the cheap spreader Snyders sells work? Or do I need the "deluxe" spreader?

It looks like the cheap one only holds it spread and doesn't actually spread\collapse it?

 

[Wuudie]

You want to give that rear spring its due respect because it can be lethal. People have been injured messing with a rear spring and not realizing the tension packed into it.

The safest way is to obtain a proper spring spreader, one that hooks against both shackle bosses. Have the rear axle housings sitting on jack stands and put a floor jack under the banjo. Spread the spring sufficiently to be able to remove the shackles. Lower the rear end down with the floor jack. Collapse the spring spreader and remove it. The rear spring is now safe as all the tension has been removed. Unhook the two U-bolt assemblies and remove the spring.

Install the spring in the reverse manner. Be sure that the square headed center bolt slips into the mating hole in the cross member. This centers it and locks it in place. It helps to put a chalk mark on the cross member and at the center of the spring under the bolt head.

Once you have the spring secured with the two U-bolt assemblies put the spring spreader back in and crank it out to match up with the shackle bosses on the rear end.

It is not safe to remove a rear end from a car with the spring still attached, even though people do it all the time. The spring is under a tremendous amount of tension and the only thing then holding all the tension is the single center bolt that was not designed to hold that much tension. If it happens to be 80 years old and rusted it can let go and allow the leaves to fly 20 feet in the air and take your head with it if it is in the way.

Work safely
Tom Endy

Same thing for front spring? (Except jacking up Banjo/Axle)
Basically, support front - Spread springs- release shackles- loosen U bols, remove?

Reason I ask, I have the Andrew's manuals, and everythign I read hear about that's usefull, I put in my own database for when I get to those areas of restoration.

 

[Tom Endy]

You need a spreader that looks similar to the one in the photo ( I hope the photo is there). This one is a less expensive one than Bratton's carry. It is missing the spring loaded retainers and the thrust bearings, but it is just as safe to use.

Tom Endy

 

[Tom Endy]

Wuudie:

The front spring is not lethal. It is not under much tension. You can usually remove it without a front spring spreader. However, there are front spring spreaders around. It is a simple threaded rod inside a sleeve that expands. I have one and it does make the job easier. You can leave the spring attached and remove the whole front end from the car safely, then remove the spring from the assembly.

Tom Endy

 

[MrTube]

I laid under the truck last night and changed the diff oil. While under I eyed up some things.

One thing I noticed is the center bolt is not there. I tried to see how things were centered and am not sure if I can really tell. The center bolt hole is NOT lined up with the diff banjo. But its off to the side in the wrong direction to agree with how the truck is leaning. I assume the center hole in the rear spring should be centered over the banjo???

The truck is leaning towards the driver side and it looks like the center hole is to the left of the banjo.

I have a feeling when the guy installed the front spring it wasn't centered properly and the rear spring is also torqued to the side.

 

[Glenn C.]

I have to support Tom Endy 100% on this one. Tom suggestion that the spring should be spread and disconnected, while still mounted under the car, is justified for another reason, that I just thought of. You have no idea at this point the integral strength of the shackles, or center bolt. If you remove the rear-end with the rear spring still attached and start to fool around with it.......you might have a Ka-Boom that you might never hear.
Don't go cheap on the spreader.....life is not worth it.

My wife got one of her hands crushed by helping me on one of our Model A's, removing the rear spring, using an improper, poorly designed, homemade spreader.

Never Again !!