Rear spring lubrication

Dean Lemoine

Dean Lemoine

Senior Member
I've disassembled the rear springs on my '29 to be sandblasted and painted. I'm looking for recommendations on lubricants before being reassembled. Thanks in advance
 
You need to polish all the grove or marks in the surface also polish the ends of each leaf
So it doesn’t dig in the leaf below
 
I don't know if it's bad or good, but heres how I did mine. With the spring out and under no tension, I merely loosened the center bolt so the gap between the leaves grew slightly. Then I poured oil across the side of the leaves and stood it on edge for about a week. Then turn it on the other side and do the same thing. The oil saturates the spring. Then I work grease in between the leaves. Tighten up the center bolt and I'm good to go. Rides good, no squeaks, what more do I want?
Terry
 
Slip plate paint works great. Besides NAPA it's also available from your local friendly John Deere dealer.
 
You might consider installing spring covers after you get them all lubed up to keep the grease in and dirt out.
 
We use a product called EZ Slide, it is available at Tractor Supply locations and on line. The picture shows a 1QT can but it comes in spray cans too. We are doing the front spring for the next Model A Times build, a 1929 Cabriolet that will be a great tour car.
 

Attachments

  • ez slide low res.jpg
    ez slide low res.jpg
    55.1 KB · Views: 108
There are many opinions but I see no need to do anything. Never seen one worn out. Any lubricant such as oil that is exposed will attract dust, and turn it into grinding compound. If it ain't fixed Don't broke it.
 
After the leaves have been sandblasted like yours, I grind out the ridges and grooves till they won't cause a problem (not completely removed), then mix a handful of graphite in primer and paint them. Then, I reassemble and paint them black. The primer holds the graphite in place and being a dry lubricant, it does not attract dirt and grime. I've been doing that for about 25 years and it works so well, I can't see any reason to change.
 
I did my rear springs a short time ago. I also ground the bottom of the tapered ends of the leaves so they somewhat looked like a ski. This will prevent them from digging in the the leaf below after they are installed. I painted them black then sprayed them with the graphite sold in spray cans. Came out fantastic and no noise and hopefully will not dig into the leafs below.
 
When oiling the leaves, it's important to remember that when tightly bolted and installed, under tension. there is no openings for dirt, sand to enter these joints. They are closed tight.
Terry
 
Slip-Plate. Get the brush on kind. Two-Three coats per side.
When it's dried, put it all back together. Then give it the unit a coat of black paint.
 
I sandblasted mine, ground out the grooves, painted with 2 coats of por 15, then slathered on my own 50/50 mix of graphite and open gear grease. Then bolted it all together and watched the grease spurt out like playdough. Springs are super smooth (as smooth as AA springs will allow at least)
 
I have restored a number of front and rear Model A springs. My method is to bead blast each leaf, grind the wear grooves down and bevel the sharp edges on the ends. I then sprayed the contact areas of each leaf with slip plate, which is a dry graphite, from John Deere with several heavy coats. It dries very quickly. As the leafs are assembled an excess will squeeze out. I wipe the spring clean with lacquer thinner and spray it with black Rustoleum paint. When installing back on the car I recommend installing the fabric spring covers available from the suppliers.


Tom Endy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top