Rear shock mount for a banjo rear

I would suggest 20 degs max for ride control. a grater angle reduces the effectiveness of the shock.
G
 
I had absolutely no problems adapting the 47-48 Columbia rear end with '47-48 shocks to the '36 banjo center section/torque tube, under my '36 coupe. I did use a '47-48 rear spring to allow for the added axle width, which is under 2"s wider than the '36.
 

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Does anyone have diagrams or part numbers for 1934 pickup original shocks? I have the apple hydraulics link to buy the original shocks but not sure how the rear shocks are connected to the dogbone.
 
Those '48 lower mounts won't work with 35/36 wishbones like they do other years. I bought a set of the new repose and will take a hundred plus the ride for them.
 
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There's 1 issue adding them to 37-40 style cars. The upper crossmember where mounting stud goes, it's not plumb. It tips back following the kick up in the frame. This effectively swings the bottom of the shock forward, so much so that it won't bolt up. My fix was to take away some of the lip on the crossmember, then I took a big *** 'C' clamp and pulled the face vertical. The shocks went in at about 30 degrees. I had to make room for tailpipes that I wanted where I wanted them. FWIW I really like the @purehotrods parts.
 

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theHIGHLANDER said:
There's 1 issue adding them to 37-40 style cars. The upper crossmember where mounting stud goes, it's not plumb. It tips back following the kick up in the frame. This effectively swings the bottom of the shock forward, so much so that it won't bolt up. My fix was to take away some of the lip on the crossmember, then I took a big *** 'C' clamp and pulled the face vertical. The shocks went in at about 30 degrees. I had to make room for tailpipes that I wanted where I wanted them. FWIW I really like the @purehotrods parts.
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I have already run my tailpipes right where the top of the shock mounts.
 
theHIGHLANDER said:
There's 1 issue adding them to 37-40 style cars. The upper crossmember where mounting stud goes, it's not plumb. It tips back following the kick up in the frame. This effectively swings the bottom of the shock forward, so much so that it won't bolt up. My fix was to take away some of the lip on the crossmember, then I took a big *** 'C' clamp and pulled the face vertical. The shocks went in at about 30 degrees. I had to make room for tailpipes that I wanted where I wanted them. FWIW I really like the @purehotrods parts.
Click to expand...

I have already run my tailpipes right where the top of the shock mounts.
 
V8COOPMAN said:
That means only ONE thing...........time for PLAN "B"! DD

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I guess the factory brackets will work. Laying the shocks down on such a sharp angle looks strange.

Okay plan B-1 I have a set of 35 lever shocks, 36 frame and 37 rear. The frame holes are not the right size and spacing and I think the shocks lever arms hit the rear tires (215/85/16) I will have to look at this again to confirm.

Plan B-2 weld lower shock mounts to the banjo.

I probably missing something.
 
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Couldn't you buy the longer ones from PrueHotRods and heat them up and bend in towards the center of the car. This would cut down on the radical angle of the shock.You could also bend them to compensate for the the non-plumb cross member stud.
 
solidaxle said:
Couldn't you buy the longer ones from PrueHotRods and heat them up and bend in towards the center of the car. This would cut down on the radical angle of the shock.You could also bend them to compensate for the the non-plumb cross member stud.
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I don't know firsthand whether or not the "PureHotRods" brackets are FORGED or CAST, but if they are CAST, ya can't 'heat & bend' them. DD
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I'm parting out a 47 panel delivery. I'll check when I get to the lot tonight and see what is there if still interested.
 
solidaxle said:
Couldn't you buy the longer ones from PrueHotRods and heat them up and bend in towards the center of the car. This would cut down on the radical angle of the shock.You could also bend them to compensate for the the non-plumb cross member stud.
Click to expand...

That idea has merit, I think. Just have to make sure bottom of shock/bracket isn't below scrub line. Or could you weld a bracket extension 90 degrees to the piece shown so that the bottom shock mount hole is moved inboard thereby making the shock angle less severe? Might look a little goofy.
 
Question for Barners: I've never worked on a 46-48 Ford, did they all come with a panhard bar (front and rear)?

The reason I ask is that I would think it would be really important to have a panhard bar if you're going to put tube shocks on a transverse leaf setup. Otherwise, when you hit a bump on one side and you're trying to compress the shock, the frame would want to move sideways on the shackles (especially if you had a shock angle like the picture up above).

If this is true, then when putting tube type shocks on a chassis that did not originally have them, a panhard bar would seem like a smart thing to have?

I'm just pondering out loud here . . . what do you chassis guys think?
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Question for Barners: I've never worked on a 46-48 Ford, did they all come with a panhard bar (front and rear)?

The reason I ask is that I would think it would be really important to have a panhard bar if you're going to put tube shocks on a transverse leaf setup. Otherwise, when you hit a bump on one side and you're trying to compress the shock, the frame would want to move sideways on the shackles (especially if you had a shock angle like the picture up above).

If this is true, then when putting tube type shocks on a chassis that did not originally have them, a panhard bar would seem like a smart thing to have?

I'm just pondering out loud here . . . what do you chassis guys think?
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I’m hardly a chassis guy maybe a guy with a chassis but I think it would be amplified if you had long shackles and a sharp angle on the shocks.
 
I was able to install the Pure Hotrods lower mounts on my 33 Roadster after heating and bending into shape. It wasnt that difficult with the car on a lift, no gas tank installed, rosette torch and a large wrench. Well mabe it was a bit of a process. Stay away from fuel tanks with welders. They have been working fine for over 12k miles now...
 
One thing to note is that if you're running a 32-34 rear end in a 32 - 34, I don't believe the PureHotrods lower mounts will work - due to the rotated angle of the bolt holes. I have a set of theirs and was going to use them on a 32 (with early rear) - no way in heck they would work. Also, I believe they are cast, not forged.
 
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