hardtimes
Well-known member
You better be right, my friend, about being happy, as you convinced me !
Just ordered from Snyders (..insert yellow face) !
Rear Panhard Bar ?
- Thread starter duke36
- Start date
You better be right, my friend, about being happy, as you convinced me !
Just ordered from Snyders (..insert yellow face) !
Synchro909
Well-known member
Not saying it won't work, but I don't think there is enough room behind the axle with the spring and all there to do as you propose. The bumper brackets are in that area also. If you look at my pictures you will notice that my Panhard Bar is actually in front of the spring.
I don't know if the Model A suspension travel is enough to make a difference either.
Looks like something for your next project...
Yeh, I was concerned about going behind the diff. Other responses suggest that the result would not be worth the effort.
For my next project, I think I'll make one that attaches to the diff as shown above. Thanks, all.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Ok, I've done the 'job' and have a couple questions for YOU (yellow face) !
The (Snyder) instruction sheet says....'THERE IS A HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF THIS FRAME BRACKET THAT ALIGNS WITH THE HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME RAIL'.
My first question to you is...what did you do when you came to this ? My frame has NO hole (on either side of frame) ? Does you frame have such hole ?
FYI..I called Snyder's and spoke of their instructions and my 'no hole' situation. I do not want to have to drill any hole(s) in frame...unless necessary for INTEGRITY of strength of mounting bracket !
Second question: the 'BAR' hits/touches (where it crosses) the mount that you attach to the differential case. In your case/opinion is that a problem ?
The third 'situation' that I ran into and had to solve, involved my alum QC rear. Since this won't apply to most, I won't go into that.
BTW..Snyder's acknowledged some suggestions for improvement of their 'Panard'(sic) Bar kit, including checking out the HOLE situation, and make instruction sheet adjustments accordingly. Nice people/nice panhard bar kit...thanks Joe (grinning face here) !
denniskliesen
Well-known member
hardtimes, I installed mine and had no problems with clearance. Yes, I had to drill the hole in the bottom of the frame, but I couldn't see how a little grade 5 5/16" bolt could hold up so I drilled mine and put in a grade 8. In fact I used all grade 8 bolts. Oh and BTW, the center section turned out great! Thanks again for helping me out with that.
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Hardtimes, I honestly don't remember drilling a hole in the frame. I probably did but don't remember. I can't imagine why there would be a hole in the frame there originally.
Second question? I just crawled under my car to check and there in no way the 'BAR' comes even close to hitting. I can stick my finger between the closest point between the bar and mount. After being on the car for ~2 years there is not a mark on it. While I was under there I checked all the bolts and they are all still tight. Could you add a washer to space it away from the mount?
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SSsssteamer
Well-known member
The bolt hole in question was not found on my 1929 Tudor's frame rail either. So I mounted the bracket on the left frame rail under the shock absorber, as per the instructions, and then I drilled the hole in the frame using the bracket's hole as a template as where to drill. The whole Panhard Bar installation could be done in less than an hour.
pooch
Well-known member
Looks like a nice accessory.
To the average A driver it would certainly improve the feeling of rocking sideways on the shackles.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey, enough of the guys responded here to show that there is NO hole and I also wondered, like some...why any such hole would to put there by Ford.
I will space the bar out as you suggest. I'd like to give you pictures, but something has just happened that I can not post pictures here, after doing so for many years, go figure ! Also, can't put smiley faces up any more..now that really hurts, eh (yellow face here) !!
I told suggested to Snyder's what I found lacking and what was good (fit/finish great) ! Their rep (Joe) said that he would get things printed correctly...if he found that what I said about 'no hole' is accurate. I ask if anyone there has ever installed one of these type equipment...(popping eyes face here) !
Thanks for your input/help. Tomorrow will do test run to evaluate if any difference noticed.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey Dennis,
Are you saying that you have already installed that rear that I supplied and that this is a picture of the housing ??
Wow, you are quick and it looks great !
BTW...You have installed the washers just like I did, AND just like the written instructions !
Yeah, I'll have to drill the 'HOLE' also (grade 8). I also had some minor hardware problems, but went to the junk coffee cans filled with junk fasteners. All went well after 4 hours. Hey, I'm old and slow remember !
One caveat. Ever hear of Murphy ? Well , this unit is very nice....but one 1/8" hole 'burr' stuck up and that's where I grabbed hold of the thing...whaah !
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I'm having picture problems also, ever since the server upgrade??
The smileys seem to be working for me tho... 
You out there Ryan??
denniskliesen
Well-known member
That's the one. The bearings didn't require a lot of shims so the width was near perfect and the pinion race was a good tight fit also. Btw I adjusted the for the length of the bolts on the sides of the center section to be the same as original bolts so they aren't too long or too short. I don't remember what the provided bolts were as I replaced everything in the kit to grade 8. No problem posting pictures, I just post them direct to this website from my computer.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey Dennis,
Thanks for your help ! You young guys, hm. Probably have a lift too, eh ?
Yeah, I had to change out all of the center section bolts also. As you did for strength and length. My center section is a QC, which has coarse threads, not the fine as original. All is well , except my back from crawling under and out from under..umpteen times. No test run today, as can hardly move left leg..bummer !
Let us know how your testing goes.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey pooch,
Took a relatively short drive (rainy morning) in my roadster to test out if any noticeable improvement/change in car attitude/handling.
The car did feel different from its reactions when going over heavy bumps (railroad crossings) at speed. It also seemed to be more stable taking corners. But, a loonger run is planned soon to learn more. Twisty up/down 25 mile run should give better data.
What I wanted to ask of you, if you know, is that the 'bar' in this kit is ONLY about 3/4" diameter. Does that seem sufficiently thick to give long term wanted results, without bending ? Seems puny, but then it may have been calculated accordingly to the puny weight/HP of the model A, eh ? In other words, would a beefier bar be better or waste of material/time/money for this application ?
pooch
Well-known member
The thing about this accessory panhard bar, is if it breaks , the car will only revert to what it was before.
If it bends it would just pull the diff sideways a bit, no big drama.
3/4 inch dia is quite OK.
Some here have mentioned they don't like the word wallowing, but that is the term I use , if you were driving with tyres of 10 PSI around a corner.
The chassis would move in and out of the bend as it moves sideways on the sidewalls..
The rear moves out and you correct the steering then the rear moves back in and you over correct it agian, etc.
This is entirely different to body ROLL.
This is the feeling a panhard bar improves.
Not really much force on an A going around a corner.
What, maybe 1/10th of a G if you are lucky?
If it bends it would just pull the diff sideways a bit, no big drama.
3/4 inch dia is quite OK.
Some here have mentioned they don't like the word wallowing, but that is the term I use , if you were driving with tyres of 10 PSI around a corner.
The chassis would move in and out of the bend as it moves sideways on the sidewalls..
The rear moves out and you correct the steering then the rear moves back in and you over correct it agian, etc.
This is entirely different to body ROLL.
This is the feeling a panhard bar improves.
Not really much force on an A going around a corner.
What, maybe 1/10th of a G if you are lucky?
hardtimes
Well-known member
THANKS !
Good thoughts/explanation. I'm with you on the wallowing vs roll , and that is what my brief ride revealed to me ! Your thoughts explaining the sufficiency of the 3/4" diam bar , is good to know also !!
I'm the kind of guy who reasons...that if a 3/4" bar is good, that a 11/2" bar should be better. Guess I'll stop working on the bigger bar now(insert yellow face) !