Rear Motor Supports

S

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New rear motor support rubber. Les Andrews book recommends cutting the extensions (tips) off the inside rubber as well as the bottom right angle piece as the extensions do not fit the frame holes well. What about the extensions on the outside rubber piece? Bolts are not long enough without cutting the extensions. How about getting the engine in between the new supports with the new thick rubber? Hard enough to get one in with old rubber on the supports. Would frame spreader be needed and if so would htis push the frame out too much? Reproduction parts just don't fit well. Anyone have experience doing this?
 
I buy almost all of my parts from A&L, Bert's, Bratton's, and Snyder's and have never had to trim the motor mount rubber. The steel sleeves push inside the rubber to act as spacers so you can't squeeze the rubber too much. If you bolts are correct then they should fit OK. If not I'd buy different bolts or rubber parts.

I've only had to use a frame spreader one time and it only needed to spread about 1/8" or less, probably closer to 1/16".
 
Thanks. I got the rubber from Berts. The bolts he got from Synders. Can you give me instructions on how they fit? Inside rubber with extension toward frame and metal extensions through holes.....outside rubber with extensions toward frame - in holes??? Won't go. Metal piece on outside of frame....flat side toward frame?

I had taken the grease off the pressure plate before I saw the reply. Just put a little on my finger and light wiped over the trans. spline and finger tips. Not nearly as much as you put on yours. Think it will be oK this way?
 
I was just under my car and looked at the rubber. I think I know where all the vibration is from now, mine are very hard, dry and cracking. When you get this done let me know how hard it was to do. Take lots of digital pictures too and post them if you can!
 
I start by putting the rubber with the bottom lip in place on the inside of the frame. Make sure the rubber nubs tuck into the frame holes, then put a little Vaseline on the metal spacers and push them into the rubber holes. Then hold the outside rubber and metal plate in place and bolt it together with the nuts and cotter pins on the outside.
 
I was following this thread and my question is how tight do you tighten up the nuts. The bolts i have seem to have the cotter pin hole out on the end of the bolts and the nut barely tightens up or you pass the cotter pin hole. Should the nut be tight? snug? just barely loose?
 
Dave N. said:
I was following this thread and my question is how tight do you tighten up the nuts. The bolts i have seem to have the cotter pin hole out on the end of the bolts and the nut barely tightens up or you pass the cotter pin hole. Should the nut be tight? snug? just barely loose?
Click to expand...

The spacer is for the nut to tighten against. If the castle nut goes on too far past the cotter hole, then adding a lock washer might be the answer. Correct length and hole location seems to be a problem with repro bolts.
 
I replaced my three front MM springs and four rubber pads on my car couple weekends ago. The rear rubber was hard as a rock and crumbled when removed. I got my parts from Brattons and did trim the rubber extentions off where the three bolts go thru, but I left the right angle on. Using stock rear bolts thru the mounts, rubber, and steel spacers and frame, I tighted up the nuts just enough to put the cotter pin in, this sets up the rear rubber as isolators and it changed the character of the car. ALOT of the vibration is gone. Now just a pleasant buzzzzz.
 
goodoldvic said:
I replaced my three front MM springs and four rubber pads on my car couple weekends ago. The rear rubber was hard as a rock and crumbled when removed. I got my parts from Brattons and did trim the rubber extentions off where the three bolts go thru, but I left the right angle on. Using stock rear bolts thru the mounts, rubber, and steel spacers and frame, I tighted up the nuts just enough to put the cotter pin in, this sets up the rear rubber as isolators and it changed the character of the car. ALOT of the vibration is gone. Now just a pleasant buzzzzz.
Click to expand...

Does the engine have to be removed? I have not had the chance to look at my mechanics book yet.
 
You can change the mounts and/or rubber parts without removing the engine, but every time I've done the mounts the engine was out.

You should NEVER have to cut off the parts of the rubber that fit into the frame holes. These are what locate the mounts in an exact position and serve a very usefull purpose.
 
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