The plugs are wrong, take the head to NAPA and fit plugs of the proper length that only expose the grounding strap.
The head with the flycut is probably a 6:1 CR. Aluminum or cast iron? Should be cast iron. Does it say Super Winfield on the water passage on top? Is the red paint original? Jim Brierely is the guy to ask about Winfield heads and the repos. But the head and plugs are not the problem. That head is fine on an A and did not cause the babbitt probs.
First, the rod oil grooves are wrong, but workable, but the reliefs at the parting line are all wrong from what I can tell. It also looks like in the photos that there is "gouging" of the babbitt from "foreign material", ie, hard sediment. Get an oil filter. Is the crankshaft scored too? And the babbitt looks thin. Herm Kohnke can analyze this best if he is still reading this forum. Have not heard from him in awhile and I miss his contributions.
A "mere" chip in the thrust face babbitt can be tolerated without repair, so long as there is no separation from the underlying cast iron, but since the rods were done wrong I expect the mains were done wrong too. I suggest you get a new babbitt job from someone who knows what they are doing. Ask questions. Search forums on this issue on this forum to learn about babbitt jobs.
FWIW, it is not so simple as just ordering rods from a catalog. They have to be fitted to the crankshaft. Your crank may be, and probably is, undersized. There are threads here on that topic.
IMHO, you do not need inserted rods and mains unless you go to a full pressure oil system, and that is a major modification, unnecessary except for extreme conditions. I run a fairly hot engine, "speed job," as you put it, with correct babbitt and splash oil and a pressure center main from Dennis Pirano's kit. Just don't go over 4000 rpms, which is my personal redline. However, some folks do inserts anyway, up to you if you are willing to spend the money.
