going to replace 2 piece cork rear main with a rope seal has any one had any experience with this if so what year and make worked for u thank you billy slinger has been removed inserted no pressure system a moter
Too bad someone removed the slinger, as they work. I haven't heard of anyone trying a rope in the rear, but other cars used them, so I'd think you can also. Just make sure the rope is well lubed and has the ends just above the parting line of the block and cap so it will squeeze together, and make sure it's not caught in the cap mounting surface.
Buick used rope seals when I worked at the dealership, so you could try that and cut it to length.
tom u say to leave rope proud of both surfaces thinking of top proud 3 16 inch block side cut flush then punch down and let cap side go into block side then seam would be in block no chance of getting under cap
On rope applications I always cut it a little above the surface then use a flat punch to tap it and compact it flush with the block or mating surfaces.. I do the cap side the same way..
The Chinese finger kits actually include a punch to do this
thanks tom aint going to deal with the cork had it running for 1 hour on stand it started weeping rope worked on lots of oldies for years just got to find the right size thing of 312 ford or 265 chevy
You can also try calling tech support at federal mogul who owns felpro..
They have helped out in situations like this on getting the right thing.. They would know all the different sizes..
I have a rope seal (Chevy, I think) in place of the slinger. I have only about 200 miles on it, but it is working well. No puddle when I park the car. It might be losing 1 or 2 drops of oil. That is good since it demonstrates that the seal is receiving lubrication.
I did not ask for the rope seal. The crankshaft grinder decided on his own that a rope seal was better than the slinger.