Rear main in 239ci in
- Thread starter Bullerman
- Start date
tubman
Well-known member
Probably not, successfully. They used to make a special set of "tools" for doing it. There was a doohickey that you inserted in an oil hole in the main bearing journal that was supposed to push the old seal out and then there was an insertion "tool" that was like the "Chinese Handcuffs" we had as kids (you know, the kind you put your fingers in) that was supposed to pull the new seal in. I don't remember anyone having any success with them.
On a real world basis, flathead rear seals are kind of finicky. On the last engine I built, I had used a "new" oil pump from Speedway Motors that didn't provide the oil pressure it should have. With less than an hour on the engine (before I put it in the car), I decided to replace it with a good tested genuine Ford pump. I was extremely careful in doing this, but the engine (that had been perfect initially) still developed a slight rear main seal leak.
Do it right and do it once.
On a real world basis, flathead rear seals are kind of finicky. On the last engine I built, I had used a "new" oil pump from Speedway Motors that didn't provide the oil pressure it should have. With less than an hour on the engine (before I put it in the car), I decided to replace it with a good tested genuine Ford pump. I was extremely careful in doing this, but the engine (that had been perfect initially) still developed a slight rear main seal leak.
Do it right and do it once.
3twinridges
Well-known member
I bet if you really inspected things, probably other leaks that need to be addressed as well. On an 8BA, not only is the rear seal a leak source but so is the oil pump idler gear cover, that can fool you into thinking you have a rear seal issue.
JB
JB
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
You will have to take the rear main caps off and loosen the others to drop the crankshaft down — also the leak could be the sealing job on the metal seal holder insert.
And while it’s apart the surface the seal rubs on needs to be inspected for surface condition and concentricity.
And while it’s apart the surface the seal rubs on needs to be inspected for surface condition and concentricity.
Going to clean it good tomorrow. Have oil here and there. There has been none on the concrete
The reason I asked about the seal is I am having clutch issues. I am just hoping the rear main is leaking and has the clutch disk comtinated. If the rear main is leaking wouldn't it be leaking oil on my carport?
I hope my pressure plate is just shot. I can't adjust the clutch up to where I have correct pedal play and I can feel the clutch pedal pulsating with my hand while at idle. I hope it's not the rear main.
The reason I asked about the seal is I am having clutch issues. I am just hoping the rear main is leaking and has the clutch disk comtinated. If the rear main is leaking wouldn't it be leaking oil on my carport?
I hope my pressure plate is just shot. I can't adjust the clutch up to where I have correct pedal play and I can feel the clutch pedal pulsating with my hand while at idle. I hope it's not the rear main.
Ronnieroadster
Well-known member
To replace the rear main rope seals its not possible to do in the car unless the transmission is removed. Unfortunately with the transmission attached to the engine its input shaft would prevent the crank from dropping down when the main bearing caps are loosened.
Recently I replaced the rear rope seal in an assembled engine which was out of the car the flywheel was removed so I could also replace the rear cover gasket as well.t.
Doing this is not as simple as one would think. Removing the seal mount from the block was not bad.
However replacing it with the new rope installed in the mount was a pain.
To get that rear seal in I dropped the crank a lot this required some of the connecting rod caps to also be loosened. Another area of caution if you drop the crank to much the cam and crank gear alignment can become an issue. It can be done but boy its not a fun job good luck
Ronnieroadster
Recently I replaced the rear rope seal in an assembled engine which was out of the car the flywheel was removed so I could also replace the rear cover gasket as well.t.
Doing this is not as simple as one would think. Removing the seal mount from the block was not bad.
However replacing it with the new rope installed in the mount was a pain.
To get that rear seal in I dropped the crank a lot this required some of the connecting rod caps to also be loosened. Another area of caution if you drop the crank to much the cam and crank gear alignment can become an issue. It can be done but boy its not a fun job good luck
Ronnieroadster
While you are inspecting the oil pump idler gear cover for leaks, be sure to check the idler gear bushing. When I built my first 8BA I didn't know to check that bushing while doing the rebuild. After getting the engine installed, it had a terrible knock at idle that sounded like a rod knock. After pulling the engine TWICE looking for the problem I realized I hadn't removed and checked the idler gear and bushing.
Sure enough, the bushing in the gear was very worn and rocked sideways enough to sound like a rod knock. Replaced the idler gear bushing and all was well. Good luck!
