Rear hubs

Larryejoh

Member
I am going thru my brakes and I noticed the lug bolts on the rear hubs are welded in. I have to replace my drums so I guess I’ll be looking for another set of hubs. Is there anything I need to watch for when picking up used hubs?
 
Welding is certainly not a good idea, though it has often been done. It doesn't automatically make the hubs unusable. Trouble is, if one or more of the welds should break loose you'll have a hell of a time getting the wheel off.
 
My drums are shot. All five lugs are welded and ground flat across the hub. I don’t think I could ground the welds off without ruining the hub. I was planing on finding a good set of used ones and sending them to Randy Gross for new hubs.
 
Larry:
A few years ago I sent Randy 2 hubs for cast drums. He said that 1 was no good and he could supply a good used one for a price. I said good and the new drums were returned in a week or so. Finding good used hubs is not so easy any more. Consider the time of the year now and where the swap meets may be. The suppliers all sell new hubs. I do not know the quality of the new hubs but the price seems reasonable.
Vic
 
I agree with those who say that good used hubs are not easy to find. That is certainly so here and I can't see it being much different over there. The first two things I look at when I'm inspecting a hub is (a) the condition of the taper and keyway and (b) the condition of the outer race for the bearing. They wear most at the end furthest from the differential. As soon as I see the hardening worn through in there, I walk. If those 2 things look good, there is still no guarantee that you have a good hub but you have a decent chance.
As has been said above, maybe you should consider buying new ones.
www.brattons.com/new-rear-hub.html
 
It would be interesting to know if the new hubs are any good?

I got used hubs from Randy as sending them one way was up to A$1200.
 
If the only problem w/the hubs is the studs, new studs can be put in, in between the original studs.
 
Even if the race in hub is starting to go bad, you can sleeve it, same with the axle tube race. Before you spend on drums inspect the bottom of the races on the axle tubes. If they are worn that should be addressed too.
 
Sleeving the hubs? Do any of the vendors sell such a sleeve? I know they sell a sleeve for the end of the trumpet but I don't recall seeing those.
Such a sleeve would have to be quite thin walled so little material has to be removed from the hub or, as Updraught suggests, the rollers would be smaller. I have a friend (who lurks on this forum and might chime in) who replaces the Ford bearing with modern roller bearings with great success. I've also seen ball bearings used but I don't like that idea because balls don't allow for end play in the shaft, which an axle will have.
 
Sleeving the hubs? Do any of the vendors sell such a sleeve? I know they sell a sleeve for the end of the trumpet but I don't recall seeing those.
Such a sleeve would have to be quite thin walled so little material has to be removed from the hub or, as Updraught suggests, the rollers would be smaller. I have a friend (who lurks on this forum and might chime in) who replaces the Ford bearing with modern roller bearings with great success. I've also seen ball bearings used but I don't like that idea because balls don't allow for end play in the shaft, which an axle will have.
Later Ford bearings were smaller and this may be what they are using.

Charlie Stephens
 
Yes the bearings used are the later style. I think all the information should be in Snyders on line catalog. The sleeve is just pressed in and held with sleeve lock. There is no machining of the hub.
The axle tube bearing surface is a different story. The end is machined down and a sleeve is pressed on. Unless the hub sleeves are used, the standard A bearings would be used with them.
Unless the hub is really bad, we use the sleeves all the time and so far have good luck.http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/hub-repair-kit
 
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