Rear Hub Tightening

Dave O

Dave O

Member
Putting on new cast iron drums and new hubs on the rear. I am using an 18" cheater bar and still the castle nuts cover about half of the cotter key hole. Really concerned about using more force. The flat washers provided by the suppliers are approx. 1/8" thick. Do I just use a thinner washer and move on??

I put in new bearings and seals and the drive keys appear to be properly oriented in the grooves of the axles and hubs.
 
hmm does the key fully seat in the new hubs? sounds like somethign is hanging up.

pop the hub back off, remove the key, and put the hub back on, then your washer, then see how far the nut goes. If it fully "seats" to where you can put a cotter in you know you have a key problem.

make sure the tapers are debris free and not wallowed out form a loose hub and keyways dont have a burr that could be hanging it up.

another thing: My AA when i went to put the axle nuts on one side went on great, other side would thread on by hand then get tight - 1/2" drive breaker bar didnt help it. Found one thread slightly boogered up. ran a die down it and was able to thread it on by hand and tighten it up as it should. So check your threads and see if the nut will thread on completely without a hub before doing what i suggested above.
 
As suggested by Charlie I called Brattons and discussed the issue with them. It's sounding like I may have a parking brake shoe interference issue. Will disconnect the brake rods (which are newly installed as part of the rebuild) and see if that takes care of the issue. Results to follow.
 
The spec is 100 foot pounds. Once the hub gets on the taper tightening the nut does't move the hub much more. Are you able to turn the hub after tightening. If not you probably do have a brake issue.
 
The hub drum assy should still be able to rotate ...if it locks up yes the brakes maybe rubbing and preventing it from seating... just a thought
 
If it's not solved yet since you have new drums and maybe brakes I would make sure the e-brake bank or service brake isn't causing an issue.

1. The e brake band should rest snuggly against the stops and not sit up. if they are new linings the leading edge should be lightly chamfered. make sure the service brakes are backed off on the adjuster and seated.

2. Make sure you have a chamfer on your axle key and seated properly.
3. if still won't go on remove the e-brake band at the C pin and remove the band, try to re-install drum. If still won't go on make sure service shoes aren't obstructing.

4. try to install without key.. see what happens.

5 a thinner washer should NOT be necessary and absolutely don't eliminate the washer

6. if still an issue take a photo or two of inside of brakes, drums and post. could be helpful.
Larry Shepard
 
If you put new pads on anywhere service/ebrake be prepared to do some sanding and a lot of it. I just went through this with new drums / hubs and even the old set would not go on all the way. They are still a little tight to spin wheel but friction will take care of that....no one in 50 miles of here arc's brakes...
 
I had an e-brake backing plate issue. Replaced one with a new from Bratton's and couldn't get the hub on. Measuring things I found the backing plate wasn't centered.
 
Beauford said:
If you put new pads on anywhere service/ebrake be prepared to do some sanding and a lot of it. I just went through this with new drums / hubs and even the old set would not go on all the way. They are still a little tight to spin wheel but friction will take care of that....no one in 50 miles of here arc's brakes...
Click to expand...

Shoes / lining
Pads / disc
:):)
 
Mitch....thanks for correcting me. I apologize to drum users of the world. I hope I did not offend anyone. HAHAHA
 
Thanks for all the excellent input. Looks like I need to size the brake shoes to the new drum. My assumption was that since I was not replacing the shoes they were worn enough and would be OK. BAD assumption! New drums are at minimum diameter. Actually about .025" under 11". Old drums must have been on the high side....maybe even beyond limits. Not sure what the previous owner did. It's a learning process!
 
Make sure you use proper hardened washers between the nut and the hub. The washers I got from Brattons were too soft, I ended up getting good, hardened washers from the Cat dealer. Also, don't forget the seal under the washer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top