Rear hub stuck.

Gufshoz

Gufshoz

Member
Why is it that what appears to be a straight forward, simple fix can open up head-scratching problems? Help and suggestions wanted.
I have tube shocks on my '30 coupe that are supported by steel plates that are through bolted to the backing plates. While doing a routine lube job, I noticed that the lower part of the rear, driver's side shock was missing the bolt and hanging loose. In my mind the job should be to simply remove the hub and replace the bolt. Right?
I disconnected the parking and brake rods to facilitate removing the hub with a hub puller. After replacing the missing bolt on the shock support, I attempted to reinstall the hub. The hub will not turn now and I haven't yet tightened the axle nut to torque. The brake rods are still disconnected and the brake adjusting wedge is completely backed out.
I removed the passenger side rear hub to compare it and I don't see any difference. I'm stuck...literally.
 
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No axle shims used on this? You would have mentioned it if you had removed it.

Well, since "stuck" is obviously between the brake drum and the shoe/backing plate the issue must be due to something of their interaction.

You mentioned backing off the brakes.

What of the "bearing" between the hub and the axle? The original bearings were frequently of "Hyatt" construction where each roller is a sort of "spring." These were high quality in their day and frequently last to the present day.

I wish the same could be said for modern bearings which have rollers that are "plain steel." (i.e. solid rods or tubes frequently with a "nub" at the end that restrains them to a cage.) I have found these rollers to be quite "brittle" and a small piece could have broken off a roller and lodged preventing motion.

Inspecting against above, next I might try an axle shim to see if something further in has failed and now causing the hub to sit closer to the backing plate/brakes. A shim might at least give you a clue to more hidden damage.

Removal of a hub CAN be a vigorous exercise. Easy to damage something and not even know.

Joe K
 
I hate to ask but is the key seated all the way and/or the key way lined up properly. If not the drum could be "cocked".
 
You indicate the only thing that was changed is that you replaced a missing bolt? Maybe that bolt was missing for a reason? Hitting the hub or drum?
 
Does it get stuck before you tighten the nut? It is possible that the drum is rubbing on the backing plate. It is also possible that the parking brake shoe or the working shoes are cocking when you put on the drum. Is the missing bolt or nut or lockwasher somewhere inside the brake and causing this problem?
 
I don’t think I need a shim. If anything, the drum is sitting about 1/8 to 1/4 inch too far out from the backing plate. I’ll disassemble it again and search for the missing nut. It feels like the brakes are seizing as I tighten the axle nut. I can’t find any other spots from something rubbing the inside of the drum.
Thanks for the ideas.
 
Another possibility is that the roller pin of one or both shoes is not riding on the roller track. To get it to click into position, push up on the bottom of the shoe with a lever, like a screw driver.
 
Hooray! I got the wheel on and torqued the nut to around 100 ft/lbs. I put in an axle shim and I think that is not a permanent fix. The thought of replacing the rear axle is just overwhelming for me. I would have to trailer the car to someone capable and experienced with axle replacement. If I can put that off for a couple of thousand miles, I might be able to swing installing a Mitchel overdrive at the same time.
Thanks for everyone's input.
 
Gufshoz said:
Hooray! I got the wheel on and torqued the nut to around 100 ft/lbs. I put in an axle shim and I think that is not a permanent fix. The thought of replacing the rear axle is just overwhelming for me. I would have to trailer the car to someone capable and experienced with axle replacement. If I can put that off for a couple of thousand miles, I might be able to swing installing a Mitchel overdrive at the same time.
Thanks for everyone's input.
Click to expand...

I am sure there are more than a few Model As running around with axle shims installed. I would suggest you re-check the torque after a short "break-in" period to ensure the torque is still the same. Can't hurt, easy to do and only cost the price of a couple of cotters.
 
I'm thinking that since the only thing you did was to install a new bolt for the shock absorber could that be the culprit? Maybe take the hub off one more time and without the axle shim rub a bit of chalk on the head of the bolt and then turn the drum as you are tightening things down until it starts to drag and then check to see if the head of the bolt is contacting something. Might be as simple as needing to grind a little bit off the head of the bolt.
 
High torque applied to the rear drum retention nuts increases the frictional force needed to remove the drums. My practice over the last 63 years has been to torque the nuts to 50 Lbs-Ft.
 
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