Rear hub repair kit

G

Gerald cook

Member
I need input from Ford barn members again the past advice I have received has been invaluable again Thank you Jerry. This time it is my rear hubs they are pitted and showing signs of wear. Is the hub repair kit worthwhile or should I just buy new hubs I worry the kit won't hold up? Thanks again Jerry
 
We use the repair kits all the time. They should come with the correct bearings. If the inside of the hub is worn, how are axle housing race areas? The wear will be at the bottom. No good fixing the one if the others worn too. They can be fixed also but it's a lot more work.
 
From what I see the "repair" sleeve is also the 36 hub sleeve and bearing, if the hub damage is such that it still alows the race to be held secure and true it should be a lifetime repair
 
redmodelt said:
We use the repair kits all the time. They should come with the correct bearings. If the inside of the hub is worn, how are axle housing race areas? The wear will be at the bottom. No good fixing the one if the others worn too. They can be fixed also but it's a lot more work.
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How are you fixturing the hub in a lathe? Personally I have only attempted to repair one time, and I set it up on the Mill on 1-2-3 blocks & jacks and tried to indicate it with a coaxial indicator. IMHO, it was not worth the effort. Will Croncrite made a Go/No-Go gauge to test a bunch of hubs he had, and he told me there were quite a few in his lot that did not pass. For that reason only, I have been replacing. Using a telescoping bore gauge, we are checking for taper. Like Will found, more are tapered in that bearing race area than not.
 
The sleeve repair kit race is pressed in. The hubs do not require machining. They use the later style bearings that have an outside diameter that is smaller then the original Model A bearing. The sleeve is "glued" in using sleeve lock product that comes with the kit. If you have questions you could call Snyder's and talk to their teck support person.
 
redmodelt said:
The sleeve repair kit race is pressed in. The hubs do not require machining. They use the later style bearings that have an outside diameter that is smaller then the original Model A bearing. The sleeve is "glued" in using sleeve lock product that comes with the kit. If you have questions you could call Snyder's and talk to their teck support person.
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Thank you for the thoughts but my underlying point in this is, I am not so sure installing them in a hub that has a taper worn into the race area is the correct repair. I realize this method of repair has been done in the past but in your opinion, what keeps the unsupported area of the sleeve from expanding to conform to the worn hub area and then you are back to the original problem. Truing-up the hub to be totally concentric from front to back IMO is the only correct way to make this type of repair. Thus, my struggle was finding a quick way to machine the surface. Using a boring head on a mill along with the set-up time to indicate it in is where I was spending too much time.
 
I have the same problem with my hub ,exactly how is the new hub pressed on
without taking the housing off? thanks
 
Sounds like everyone on this thread are talking apples and oranges.

1) The kit to repair the worn race in rear hub is listed in Brattons Catalog as part # 1820


2) The race sleeve sold to repair the worn axle housing (trumpet) is part #1840 and requires disassembly of the differential housing so the worn race can be turned down to allow the new race to be pressed on.
 

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Mikeinnj said:
Sounds like everyone on this thread are talking apples and oranges.

1) The kit to repair the worn race in rear hub is listed in Brattons Catalog as part # 1820


2) The race sleeve sold to repair the worn axle housing (trumpet) is part #1840 and requires disassembly of the differential housing so the worn race can be turned down to allow the new race to be pressed on.
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No, I'm pretty sure everyone here is mentioning 'hub'. Mike, the issue that I have found is that during the lifespan of the hub, probably due to poor, --or no grease for the bearing, it begins to wear the race in the hub. For whatever reason, it does not wear uniformly but instead creates a taper (...or maybe another term would be draft) in the race surface of the hub. Yes, a sleeve can be pressed in however there really is not anything to support the sleeve in the tapered area. The sleeve retaining compound cannot support the sleeve either, so over time, the weight and thrusting loads of corners will expand the sleeve until it rests on the hub that is tapered. Realistically at that point you are back to the original problem, and my thought is why bother? I was hoping Tom had a better (i.e.: quicker) way he could share with us on how he fixtures the hub in a lathe where the tapered race wear could be machined out with a boring bar prior to installing a sleeve. As I mentioned above, indicating it in on a mill sucks!! :o

.
 
ped58 said:
I have the same problem with my hub ,exactly how is the new hub pressed on
without taking the housing off? thanks
Click to expand...

See my post # 8 and yes ,you will have to take the axle housing off to turn down the race at a machine shop and then press on the new race sleeve.
 
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