Rear hub removal blues

Kurt in NJ said:
Always jack up the other side wheel off the ground
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Both rear wheels are on jackstands.
I have tension on it so the tool is just starting to bend. I'll leave it until tomorrow. If it doesn't give up, I'll add a modest amount of heat.

I've bought the tool from the ad on EV8, but I have to send the money and then get it shiopped here. It will be a while.
 
Kurt in NJ said:
Always jack up the other side wheel off the ground
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The above advice would apply if using an impact method, but has no benefit with a KRW type tool. Proper method would require no more than a rap with a
Hammer, if at all.
With regard to the tool’s axle nut, the instruction to back off by ½ thread doesn’t make sense to me. In my opinion (I’ve used this method many times), the threads should not be put at risk of distortion, rather, should accept equal pressure with the axle’s end, which would be at the point of initial contact, not even finger tight.
 
For the axle nut; I welded a round piece of 1/4 steel to a 5/8-18 nut. Run it up snug on the axle threads so the puller bolt acts on the end of the axle, not the threads.

Not mine in the picture; but the same idea.
 

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Well, I got it off without breaking anything. For inquiring minds, I'll tell you what worked for me. I put the puller back on the hub with the bent part turned inwards. I tightened it until the bent part was back straight again and left it overnight. It was still tight today, so I removed it and used an 8# sledge hammer to back up a 2# hammer and struck the tapered area of the hub all around. I put the puller back on and tightened it until it started to bend. One lick on the puller boss at the axle end and it popped loose.

Thank you all for your helpful comments. I have ordered the Vintage Precision puller for the next time.
 
New2restoring said:
I purchased a hub tool from 3rd generation, and it worked just fine.
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With all due respect to Michael, his Economy Hub Puller, in my opinion, looks to be very sensitive to position correctly without experiencing bad results. The KRW type on the other hand, is all but fail-safe. I may be wrong in my opinion, but then, I always went for the best that money could buy.
 
40cpe said:
Well, I got it off without breaking anything. For inquiring minds, I'll tell you what worked for me. I put the puller back on the hub with the bent part turned inwards. I tightened it until the bent part was back straight again and left it overnight. It was still tight today, so I removed it and used an 8# sledge hammer to back up a 2# hammer and struck the tapered area of the hub all around. I put the puller back on and tightened it until it started to bend. One lick on the puller boss at the axle end and it popped loose.

Thank you all for your helpful comments. I have ordered the Vintage Precision puller for the next time.
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The Vintage Precision tool should be in every Early Ford owner's tool box or a good friend's tool box. It is very, very well made and I have not encountered a drum it will not remove. Highly recommended
 
Tim Ayers said:
The Vintage Precision tool should be in every Early Ford owner's tool box or a good friend's tool box. It is very, very well made and I have not encountered a drum it will not remove. Highly recommended
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Thanks for sharing your experience with it. I hope my experience is like yours.
 
If I was having this issue, I'd use some heat all around the tapered area of the hub (like a good map torch) - my bet is that the expansion would make the pulling a lot easier.
 
Because it provides a little slack in the assembly so the force of the hit does not stop when the axle gear crashes into the spider gears
 
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