Rear hub knock off tool

R

RickInVA

Junior Member
How do you use a rear hub knock off tool?
After you remove the axle nut and thread the knock off tool on, do you threat it all the way to the hub or do you leave a space between the tool and the hub before you strike the tool? Should the hub you are trying to remove come loose or is the the other side hub that comes loose? Why does the other wheel have to be jacked up as well as the one you are working on. How does it work? Does the drum hit the backing plate and the axle moves in a little further when the nut is struck, popping the hub free? i guess i want to know the best way to us it and why it works.
 
The tool you are referring too is a tiny little bit better than turning the axle nut around and hitting it with a big hammer………. And damaging axle threads!!!! Buy the tool that works on the early and/or later hubs! It pushes on the axle end and pulls the hub.
 
http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html
rear_hub_puller_lg2.jpg
 
I have tried to use various hub pullers. The only one that worked for me is listed below. Buy some nuts from McMaster Carr to replace the castle nut and use that instead to protect the axle threads. Follow the instructions that come with the tool. The nut should be flush with the end of the shaft threads.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976169&cat=41753

I was told, back in the day, to loosen up the nuts, put the cotter key back in, they drive the car around a few corners, and the hubs would come loose. I have never tried this so I don't know if it works.
 
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""I was told, back in the day, to loosen up the nut, put the cotter key back in, they drive the car around a few corners, and the hubs would come loose. I have never tried this so I don't know if it works.""
I'm from "back in the day" and I have used this procedure many times. It works every time.
 
nkaminar said:
I have tried to use various hub pullers. The only one that worked for me is listed below. Buy some nuts from McMaster Carr to replace the castle nut and use that instead to protect the axle threads. Follow the instructions that come with the tool. The nut should be flush with the end of the shaft threads.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976169&cat=41753

I was told, back in the day, to loosen up the nuts, put the cotter key back in, they drive the car around a few corners, and the hubs would come loose. I have never tried this so I don't know if it works.
Click to expand...

nkaminar, the one you refer to is the one made by Mitchell Manufacturing that I linked to in Post 5. I agree 100%.
 
MAG said:
""I was told, back in the day, to loosen up the nut, put the cotter key back in, they drive the car around a few corners, and the hubs would come loose. I have never tried this so I don't know if it works.""
I'm from "back in the day" and I have used this procedure many times. It works every time.
Click to expand...

My brother tried this once and drove the car around for a month before the hub came loose. Your milage may vary.

If trying to use a "knock off" puller, jack up the wheel on the other side of the car and leave the wheel that you're trying to remove on the ground.
 
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By all means get a good puller like in the previous posts , if you damage the axle shaft or internal gears, it will be a labor involved operations , dismantling the rear end to replace the axle shaft and or gears.Having the right tool for the job makes it easier. I had a 37 Ford that pulling the rear drum was project, maybe never off in years.
 
I use and have had good results using this type:
 

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I also recommend the Mitchell Hub Puller. Takes only a few minutes to put on. Hit it with a hammer and the hub falls off. Piece of cake. Mitchell also makes the overdrives for the Model A. I carry mine in the box under the seat.
 
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