Rear hub bolts size

C

CFreitas

Junior Member
I need to replace the rear hub bolts of my Ford and acquired bolts A-1118 for my suite cast iron drums.
Now I have a problem, the hub bolts don't hold on to the drum, they have a tangentially smaller diameter.
I attach a photo, where you can see that the originals (right side) have a square fitting (also in the drum) and the new one (on the left) has a rounded triangle!
I will be grateful if someone can help me.
 

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The description by Snyders states that they need to be swedged onto the drum. If you have not swedged them, then this would explain why you are having the trouble you are. Typically a 40-ton press is recommended for swedging these.
 

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Swaging is basically a process similar to riveting where a hydraulic press brings a hollow tool down over the threaded portion of the stud. When the tool hits the "collar" portion of the stud it "peens over" a lip (or ring) around the circumference of the collar to hold the stud tight inside the mounting holes in both the hub and drum. This basically mates the hub and drum into a single unit that cannot be separated unless that newly formed lip is cut off and the studs removed. As previously stated, this is an operation for a machine shop with a 30-40 ton press, the proper tooling to "back" the studs and create the lip, and, preferably, a person with experience doing this operation. If not done properly, the hub and drum can both be ruined.
 
try find someone in your area that has the tools and experience doing this.
i have a 94 year old friend who has been doing these lug bolts for years. he is teaching me the art of swaging the lug bolts. it is quite a process, and you can crack the cast drum in the process. look at the old original bolts and you can see where the have been swaged. you also need to use a special shell cutter to trim the old swage before pressing out.
 
FWIW, I use a drill from the back side to remove the heads of the studs, then tap them out. It does require that you set your drill up EXACTLY on the center of the stud you are drilling. I use my small vertical mill, but you can use a drill press as well. Here’s the fixture I made to set the hub on.
 

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Larry can you please post photo of the shell cutter?


I'm looking for your photo JayJay and I'm trying to understand how to use the tool you designed. Is the intervention done from the outside of the drum or from the inside?
 
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Larry can you please post photo of the shell cutter?
Click to expand...
The shell cutter CAN be a small hole saw. The object being the ID of the hole saw is slightly larger than the OD of the threaded portion of the bolt.

The only problem you might encounter using a hole saw is the "depth" required to stay above the length of the stud.

Some use a "hollow mill" which given a Bridgeport Mill available, would be the way to go.

The vendors (IIRC) sell a saw/mill/cutter which will do this with power tools. Check out https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976151

Joe K
 
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CFreitas said:
Larry can you please post photo of the shell cutter?


I'm looking for your photo JayJay and I'm trying to understand how to use the tool you designed. Is the intervention done from the outside of the drum or from the inside?
Click to expand...
Drum mounts upside down (inside of the drum facing upwards) with three of the five wheel studs inserted into the vertical round stock that is welded to the flat plate. Drill from the back side.

Setup is by centering the drill to one of those three round pieces, then clamping the table securely. That way you will always be in the center of the stud you are drilling.

Only drill deep enough to free the head of the stud, you don’t want to risk drilling into the hub.

Ignore the three leveling screws, those are for another thing I use that plate for.
 
I think it would be best to find a local truck or machine shop, or Randy Gross, to do that type of work.
 
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I don't set the new studs. I made this to harvest hubs from old steel drums so that I could sell the hubs at swap meets. I made it from steel I had on hand rather than spend $100+ on a swedge cutter.


If you need to have new drums installed on hubs, Randy Gross is your guy.


562635
 
I am very grateful for your support
I have a very small problem: I leave in Lisbon (Portugal - Europe) and finding someone who really knows about Ford A is very difficult and my car is 200km far away (my father´s home).
On the other hand, importing directly is a bit complicated due to costs and bureaucracy. It is almost easier to go there and bring it!!!!

For example, I needed a "Speedo Shaft Retainer" (A17274) which I can't find in Europe and in the US it costs $2. I would have to pay at least $100 for shipping and customs service, not including taxes (vat and import tax)...
 
CFreitas said:
I am very grateful for your support
I have a very small problem: I leave in Lisbon (Portugal - Europe) and finding someone who really knows about Ford A is very difficult and my car is 200km far away (my father´s home).
On the other hand, importing directly is a bit complicated due to costs and bureaucracy. It is almost easier to go there and bring it!!!!

For example, I needed a "Speedo Shaft Retainer" (A17274) which I can't find in Europe and in the US it costs $2. I would have to pay at least $100 for shipping and customs service, not including taxes (vat and import tax)...
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good excuse to visit the USA.
 
You must have a truck repair shop or machine shop in Portugal. This is not a new type operation, or just for a model A. Those type of shops should be able to do it. Don't overthink this.
 
Finding seniors who understand what they are doing is very difficult, and the very few that exist, in any specialty, are unable to respond to requests and are very expensive!
There are some who accept jobs, but as soon as you get there you run away straight away, they are opportunists
(today a car mechanic only knows how to turn on a computer, order the parts it indicates, and there is no guarantee that he will be able to follow the instructions to replace the parts...)
 
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