Rear Engine Main Seal

[johnr9q@yahoo.com]

I see various opinions on how much to trim the rope gasket where it hangs below the timing gear cover and interfaces with the pan. I see 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 inch. I was just under there looking at it and with the pan cork gasket covering it, looks to me like it is going to buldge too much if the rope gasket hangs down very far (I don't think I am supposed to trim the pan gasket where it hits the timing cover gasket but if I did, it might fit better? Also the article on leakless pan gasket installation says to put a little contact cement on the block to hold the cork pan gasket in place. I did and it doesn't stay so I put more and still didn't stay.

 

[redmodelt]

I leave about and 1/8 on both side and try not to trim the pan gasket if I don't have to. It will crush just fine when the pan is snugged up. I put the sealer on the pan side and grease on the top side. For the rear seal, which is what your title is, a little sealer in the corner before installing the seal back there, which has to be trimmed to fit too.

 

[German guy]

Seems like a good topic for Paul Shinn to do a video about. I am dropping my pan as soon as my barn is no longer a deep freezer, and this question has been at the top of my mind. A step by step would be a great help.

 

[Joe K]

This sounds like the "do I trim the cork" or "do I whittle the pan gasket" question.

I've done both. Both seemed to work. I think given the "compression" thought above (where I was the last time I did this) I would go with the compression modus.

Of course its always possible to "buckle" the cork gasket before compression is completed.

But trimming the cork off level, cork dries (natural product) and may lift all on its own.

Permatex at the juncture?

Joe K