Rear end pull pics, and questions

[flat-v8]

I got it out today, wasn't too bad, didn't like what I found at spline coupling and torque tube, Rust, hand full metal shavings, broken pin inside torque tube. I would have broken down for sure! Question is... the turtle is marked 23, will that even work when I change my gear set to 3.78? Or it will work, just display the wrong speed?

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Wow, that does not look good to say the least. I would suggest doing everything you can to rebuild that assembly correctly. Don't do it half way and have to do it again. 3.78:1 gears will need a #19 turtle gear with 600 x 16 tires. #23 was normally used with 4.44:1 gears.

 

[flat-v8]

Thanks John, yeah I'm gonna buy the center bearing and a new 6 spline coupling with pins, I hope I can still use the drive shaft, may have to saw the coupling in half and split it to get it off! It is rusted out, but hopefully I can clean up the shaft. Can you buy the #19 speedo gear?

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

You can find those #19 turtles pretty easily. I may even have one I don't need in my collection. With that much rust in the coupling area, the spline on the drive shaft needs to be checked carefully. What is the spline count on the pinion of your 3.78 gears? With that much rust damage you may have also had water in the banjo housing. It's possible that you may need new pinion and carrier bearings and races as well.

 

[Ken/Alabama]

Noticed all the clamps on the spring. There should be a bolt with a thick square head on it to hold all the leaves together and the head centers up in the crossmember.

 

[flat-v8]

I have the spring bolt out, and the smallest leaf on top is out. I hope I don't need a new drive shaft But I do need a #19 speedo gear, if you are willing to sell it John!

 

[Mart]

Nice nto see some good pictures of the rear end removal, lots of people ask how it's done, and this is a good illustration.

I'm a little worried about the welding clamps holding the spring together, you can't release them gradually like the G-clamp. How do you intend to release the spring? I suppose a long threaded bolt or rod through the spring bolt hole can be used to release the pressure gradually.

Mart.

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Thet is one beautifull truck. I had 3 of those 35 trucks when I was a young pup. Wish I'd kept one. You might as well take the rear end all apart, I'm sure the pinon bearings are all rust and probably everything inside. Walt

 

[39portlander]

Nice nto see some good pictures of the rear end removal, lots of people ask how it's done, and this is a good illustration.

Funny you mention this Mart. In the thread and pic's of your project I had noticed the way you dropped the rear axle and that gave me some ideas. Good pic's and I love that Blue

That last pic of the torque tube, look's like a sewer main

 

[PeteVS]

Here's a link to a HAMB thread on rebuilding a banjo rear.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=462776

I have further concerns about you "just needing a sleeve." To me, it appears that your rear was stored outside at one time with the torque tube up and uncovered which allowed water to get inside. That's what caused the rust. Be aware that there's no seal between what you see now and further inside. I'm guessing that you're going to see the same destruction inside the entire rear. IMHO

One last (probably should be first) concern: The vise grips AND the C clamp are both DANGEROUS! I use Pony clamps (see picture below) along with threaded rod through the center hole when disassembling a spring. Neither the C clamp nor the Vise Grips you're using are too stable under a load like the spring is causing and the spring can do a lot of damage to body and property if they get just a little bit out of position.

 

[flat-v8]

This rear is gonna be completely rebuilt, never done this before, so it's a challenge! Richard Crow sold me a complete center section with 3.78 gears, all I'm using here is the housing bells and torque tube, and maybe drive shaft, if salvageable. I used those clamps on spring just to get it out, I'll bolt it together, then use the spreader to release the shackles. I just found the #19 turtle & gear on Ebay for $25.00 so I'll swap that out. That center bearing install is gonna be a Biatch, but has to be done. I didn't have the trucked jacked up high enough at first, spring wouldn't even clear to get it out, so up she went! How should I clean out the sewer pipe? (torque tube) Use a mini mop head dipped in gasoline? More pictures.

 

[PeteVS]

If you're getting the entire center section and it's all together (with the pinion in the banjo casting,) you shouldn't have to worry about the "center bearing."

 

[Andy]

I cleaned up a internally rusted torque tube. I made a block off plate for the end and filled it with deluted pool acid. It will sure eat the rust. It must be rinced with ospho aferwards or it will rust really fast.

 

[1931 flamingo]

Take the torgue tube off (you're going to have to anyway to get the brg out). Can try the mop and gas, or try stuffing rags thru it. Could try pressure washer?
Paul in CT