Rear End Plug ???What Do You Folks

Harley03joe

Harley03joe

Senior Member
I Want To Change My Rear End Oil, BUT The Plug Must Have Been RED Locktited In I Bought A 7/16 Mac Socket BUT The Plug Won't Budge, And It's Starting To Spread Out , The 7/16 Squire In The Plug Makes The Side Walls Thin.

So I Am Going To Buy 7/16 Key Stock Cut Off A Peice To Fit In The 7/16 Squire Hole And J&B Weld It In Let It Dry Good, Then Use A Big Pipe Wrench On It With A Peice Of Pipe To Extend It.
The 7/16 Key Stock With Keep The Plug From Collapsing And IJust Might Get It Out.

What Do You Folks Think, ? Should I Put Some Heat On It Also ??
Pictures Attached
Thanks
Harley03joe




7/16 Key Stock


As You Can See I Have Enought Plug Sticking Out To Get A Pipe Wrench On :):)

 
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If you stand your car up on it's back bumper you could drain the fluid out of the nice shiny silver one on the back side. :D

If you had a 7/16" 8 point socket you may by able to put more downward(upward in this case) force on the keystock as you turn. Good luck!

Jerry
 
I had the same problem just a week ago!!! you can try HEAT but I could not do that because it was a show car. What I did was grind down a cheap 1/2 drive extension and tapped into place and the plug came right off. It was the hardest plug I ever saw to remove.

Mike
 
I would try a quality Vice-Grip first, or a pipe wrench with good teeth. If those fail to remove the plug, then I'd weld a large nut to the top surface. Scrape the paint out of the plug so the weld sticks to the sides and fills the pocket. Bring the weld up high enough to weld the nut securely to the plug. When the weld cools the plug should have shrunk and come out very easily.
 
Hi Joe,

I would:

1. First be patient & try putting several applications of paint remover on the plug & surrounding area which appears to be totally sealed with paint; & try wire brushing this same plug's crevice area at threads.

2. Next, with a Q-tip or other application tool, apply Kroil, PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, or similar product just to try dissolving "possible" rust in lieu of Locktite. Also tap plug to cause a shock effect to try to break loose the seal between applications.

3. If your pipe wrench idea fails, & "if" you have access to a MIG or TIG welder, after removing paint, carefully weld a washer over the plug, a little at a time, (to avoid excess heat) by filling the inside of the plug followed by welding a nut on top of the washer, then unscrew same using the nut.

4. If the washer or nut weld breaks loose, try again & again may 3-4 times ...... the plugs heat expansion & contraction cooling will cause yielding where it will break loose.

5. If Locktite was used, it cannot stand much heat.

Let us know your results which will be educational.
 
ATTENTION: VOTING TIME:

If a big CASH prize would be awarded for the most "ingenious" solution to this particular oil plug removal problem, my vote would ....... without question .... definitely go to Jerry's back bumper solution in his most compassionate Reply No. 2. LOL
 
Just a suggestion but what about leaving it in and sucking the oil out with a suction gun and a rubber hose? I think you can find something to use at an auto parts store. Not the ideal solution but maybe a couple of cycles of empty and refill would do the job.

Charlie Stephens
 
Maybe PB blaster, for 8-10 hours reapplying it... them take your 7/16 Key Stock, and slowly very lightly, tap, tap and try to turn the Key it a little...This worked with my rusted distributer set screw... I think the tapping force,inward on the threads will start to weaken the Lock tight.
7-16BarStock.jpg
Given enough light taps and time, it will come off...
 
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I struggled with this once on a rearend that had been slathered with POR-15 epoxy coating by a previous owner. It took several cycles of heating and cooling to break it loose. That stuff is tough!
 
Joe
I think you are going in the right direction with the 7/16" square stock provided it fits really tight. It would be good if it had to be tapped in a bit. Then I would MIG 2 parallel sides of the key stock to the plug. Then put a crescent on the key stock and turn it out.

Good Luck
Joe
 
If you undo one bolt that holds the axel housing on the oil will drain out ,
If all else fails arc weld a piece to the old bung ,this will shrink it & allow you to get a grip on it .
 
Hi Ursus,

1. That was my first impression, (i.e., "maybe" POR 15), when looking at that shiny black coating; hence, I first suggested just regular paint remover.

2. Next, if he came back to respond that regular paint remover would not work, any POR 15 user would know it "is" POR 15; thus POR 15 Stripper would be recommended to remove the "tough" POR 15 lodged in the threaded joint.

3. And "yes" applied POR 15 is really very "tough" stuff on properly "prepared' metal or wood.

4. For example, if one paints the head & shank of a "prepared" bolt with POR 15 to fit in a tight opening, & if one later finds that the POR 15 mil thickness is too thick, it takes a while to remove the "tough" coating of POR 15 from the bolt's shank, even with a an electrically powered wire brush on a mandrel.
 
The use of the 1/2 extention filed to size sounds like the best, non invasive, least impact solution all other good ideas can be saved as a last resort. Maybe a slight "Hit" with a 1/2 impact once the extension is in place will bust it loose.
 
Thank You All For All Your Very Good Ideas , I'LL Try The 1/2 Inch Extension One First, And Remove The Paint And Use PB Blaster, It's Soaking Now In PB Blaster :)

I Also Like The Collapse It In And Pick It Out

So You All Know I Don't Have A Welder :(

Also So You Know The Plug In The Rear Now Is Ok And Not Leaking , BUT It's Not Right With Me , So I Have To Change It, And I Will Get It Done :)
And Let You All Know How It Went
Thank You All For Your Help In This Matter
Harley03joe :)
 
Jerry Kzoo said:
If you stand your car up on it's back bumper you could drain the fluid out of the nice shiny silver one on the back side. :D

If you had a 7/16" 8 point socket you may by able to put more downward(upward in this case) force on the keystock as you turn. Good luck!

Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry I Have My LONG Brake Adj, Tool 8 Point :)
 
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