Rear End Noise Update

A

A-Man

Senior Member
Just before Ford Barn changed in early May, 2010, I posted "Rear End Noise". Since that posting, I have pulled the rear end from my 1930 Model A Deluxe Coupe at the U-Joint, and disassembled the rear end & axle components. Several of you were on the right tract as to possible problem(s), as I discovered that two opposite teeth on the pinion were broken off.

I have ordered and received parts, replacing pinion, ring gear, all the bearings, races, etc. Thanks to all of you who reponded in the forum and via email. Us "newbies" really appreciate the advice and information that you provide to us.
I am now putting the parts together and in place. I have several references, including Les Andrews' "Model A Ford Mechanics Book" and Jim Schild's "Restorer's Model A Shop Manual". I have a question regarding the installation of the four(4) axle & differential bearings and the roller bearing in the torque tube. No where do I see any instructions on "packing" the bearings. So, I am assuming that the four(4) axle & differential bearing are NOT to be packed with grease. Is this correct? I realize that the roller bearing is in the torque tube, and therefore does get grease, so I do plan to "pack" it with grease before installation. Is wheel bearing grease appropriate for this packing?

Again Thanks.

Since I do tour this car, I did go to a 3.54:1 ratio gear ring and pinion, which also necessitated changing speedo gear.
 
Posting a picture of the 1930 Model A Deluxe Coupe
 

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A-Man - I have reread Tom Endy's assembly/disassembly instructions, and you are correct. You DO NOT pack grease in the axle & differential bearings; they are lubricated by the 600w oil you put in the diff. However, you DO pack grease in the torque tube bearing; but it was stated in the instructions to make sure you have put in the grease seal in first. I hope this helps.
 
It won`t hurt a thing to pack them in any bearing grease. I would rather see them packed than to start off dry, it will all get mixed up. Monte
 
A-Man: I did the same conversion of adding a 3.54 : 1 to my '30 Coupe some years ago. I did find that I then had lost power on the high end basically due to the engine not turning fast enough to develop the necessary horsepower, especially against any sort of a head wind. Within a short time, I installed a 6.0 : 1 Brumfield head which resolved the loss of power and gave what I consider a very sweet combination. I later removed the Brumfield due to sealing problems and installed a Snyder's "Police" head which has been running perfectly. I do have more power when I need it and, on expressways at 50, I consistently clock over 22 MPG. It is certainly a hummer!
 
Aerocraft said:
A-Man: I did the same conversion of adding a 3.54 : 1 to my '30 Coupe some years ago. I did find that I then had lost power on the high end basically due to the engine not turning fast enough to develop the necessary horsepower, especially against any sort of a head wind. Within a short time, I installed a 6.0 : 1 Brumfield head which resolved the loss of power and gave what I consider a very sweet combination. I later removed the Brumfield due to sealing problems and installed a Snyder's "Police" head which has been running perfectly. I do have more power when I need it and, on expressways at 50, I consistently clock over 22 MPG. It is certainly a hummer!
Click to expand...

That's the main reason I will install a higher compression head. I want the best possible gas mileage. On Saturday I drove 107 miles and use 5.7 gallons which is 18.77 MPG. That's with a stock 28 Phaeton, top up and no side curtains, and 3.70 rear end. Also, this was mostly driving 45 MPH and a mix of country and urban roads.
 
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A-man, nice to see our paint man did a good job matching the Chicle-Drab and Copra-Drab paint chips! I always wonder, as I see many variations of this color combination... I had to do a double-take and make sure that wasn't a photo of MY car!! :) Here is mine for comparison.
I also have the 3.54 rear-end, and a 6.9:1 Brumfield head.
 

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Aerocraft, if you had a sealing problem with your Brumfield Head you should have sent it back.

Customers have enjoyed the performance of various Brumfield Heads for 23 years now and many have reported as much as 60,000 miles of trouble free service.

Larry Brumfield
 
Early Brumfield Heads

After determining Aerocraft's identity in post #7 and checking old records, I see that he did return the head.
The head needed resurfacing. Early Brumfield Heads had some machining issues which caused some of them to not be flat enough on the bottom. Subsequently, a correction changed all that and ensured that every head was flat less than .001 of an inch before going out the door. An insection tag was also added to each head showing the date of inspection and the surface flatness measurement.
Larry Brumfield
 
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