Rear end Lub Question

D

Dennis D 1929

Member
My old barn find 1929 coupe probably needs rear end fluid. Could I use the 85 - 140 wt. I have laying around or do I need some thing special. Am I to understand the same stuff goes in the transmission ? Also I'm going to be replacing the water pump with the more expensive non-lub model. Any hints on installation ?
 
The 85-140wt oil will work fine if it is a good brand. Just remember a bad oil is better than no oil. The no lub leakless water pump is a nice addition as well.
 
Some find the special water pump bolts that appear to be studs and nuts work well for them. Makes the next time the pump is removed quite easy if a two bladed fan is also used.
 
Some water pump stud holes go INTO the water area, put some Permatex # 2, on those bolt threads. Ask me how I KNOW! I "thought" the NEW Pump wuz DEFECTIVE!! I found the leak, before I called the Supplier & made an ***, of myself---LOL
Bill Drip
 
We have been using a 50/50 mix of 600w oil and STP in our transmission and rear end. Works well, no leakage, shifts nicely.

Leak less water pump in my view is the way to go.

You didn’t ask but we also use John Deere Cornhead grease in steering box and u-joint. Enjoy.
 
According to some articles, 140wt is the same thickness as 600w. Modern standard, NAPA and others have it.

85-140 works, but double clutching takes a fraction longer for gears to match speed to avoid a slight grind and I thought it was noisier. Had 600w, tried Dino and synthetic, before doing with straight 140wt.

The 600w sold by vendors does not have modern oil standard info.
 
The closest thing to 600 is known as steam cylinder oil. Usually available only in 5 gallon cans from the major suppliers / distributors. Auto parts stores won't have it. So thick its 1/2 way to grease. Makes 140 look like water and the trans shifts like never before. By the way, STP is not a lubricant, only an additive.
 
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