Rear End Drain Plug Still Leaking

spdway1

Well-known member
I have removed my rear-end drain plug twice to stop it from leaking. Both times I have let it drain overnight. Then I run cleaner through the housing and let that drain and completely dry. The first time I used teflon on the plug threads and the second time I used silicone sealer. Thank you for your help and tips.:cool:
 
How about Pipe Sealer? I believe it comes in a stick and you have to rub it on the threads! Sure hope there are no cracks in the housing!

I want to say I thought mine was leaking and after more investigation I notice the housing bolt are leaking. I suggest this could be happening to yours. Those bolts are not captivated on the pumpkin so the oil can come out about the threads without sealing on them!

Best of Luck!
 
Last edited:
Most conventional teflon-based pipe thread sealers do not have good resistance to hydrocarbons like oils, gasoline, diesel, etc. I've been using Gasoila gasoline-resistant thread sealant for this and similar applications on the car, seems to be working well. This is advertised as "Excellent resistance to gasoline, ethanol blended gasoline such as E10 and E85, petroleum solvents, kerosene diesel oil, BioDiesel propane, jet fuels, butane, LPG, cutting oils, ammonia, aliphatic solvents, acids, steam and potable water." Resistance to jet fuels is particularly important in Model As. :)
 
are you sure its the plug leaking and not the large rear end gaskets on the differential housing

I have been dealing with this issue for a couple years. I replaced the left axle and reassembled using the same thickness housing gasket as original--didn't torgue the nuts. My drain plug is just a 1/2" pipe plug. The assembly leaks about a teaspoon/ year. Prompted by this post, I just torqued the housing nuts--they weren't too far off. The red book says to be sure the weld joint of the left housing faces forward. Both of mine face down. Do I need to re-assemble before putting it on the road.?
 
Most conventional teflon-based pipe thread sealers do not have good resistance to hydrocarbons like oils, gasoline, diesel, etc. I've been using Gasoila gasoline-resistant thread sealant for this and similar applications on the car, seems to be working well. This is advertised as "Excellent resistance to gasoline, ethanol blended gasoline such as E10 and E85, petroleum solvents, kerosene diesel oil, BioDiesel propane, jet fuels, butane, LPG, cutting oils, ammonia, aliphatic solvents, acids, steam and potable water." Resistance to jet fuels is particularly important in Model As. :)


JayJay,

I was going to recommend the same thing. Our local Tractor Supply had a smaller container for a little less money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have been dealing with this issue for a couple years. I replaced the left axle and reassembled using the same thickness housing gasket as original--didn't torgue the nuts. My drain plug is just a 1/2" pipe plug. The assembly leaks about a teaspoon/ year. Prompted by this post, I just torqued the housing nuts--they weren't too far off. The red book says to be sure the weld joint of the left housing faces forward. Both of mine face down. Do I need to re-assemble before putting it on the road.?
The earlier housings had the welds on the bottom. Later axle housings had the welds on the side. The important thing is to have the spring perches on the top. ;)
 
My late 31 Tudor has the welds up, when I first got the A someone had taped one of the axle tubes, I found that the spring hanger had worn out at sometime and laid on the weld and worn through, all good now !
 
Thank you for your help, I will check the housing bolts and I found and ordered Gasoila Sealant for half the price on Ebay.
 
Back
Top