Rear Bumper Bracket Removal/Installation - 31 Std Coupe - Rear Spare

Mike in NRN IN

Mike in NRN IN

Senior Member
I found out that the rear brackets on my coupe have been 'welded' and the welds broke (this is not about how to weld properly - I know that these were not welded very well!)

I purchased replacement rear brackets and had them powder coated today (excellent service - took them in and they happened to be doing black, so I got in on the extra space - WOOT!) The brackets will be ready for pickup this afternoon!

Is it possible to remove/install these with the body on?

If so, are there any secrets to pass along?

I look forward to hearing back from the barn!

=========================================================
For those interested, the cost of the powder coating job, including sandblasting and a UV resistant paint - $40. Yep, I can handle that - sure beats the cost of rattle cans, etching material, primer and time.
=========================================================

If I remember, I'll post pictures of the process.
 
Here's what I have learned so far...

The brackets can be removed without removing the body; but and there is always a but (in more ways than one)

It's not that easy.

I have removed all but the two bolts off at the rear cross member (where the spring is bolted in.) This is a booger to get to with the spring in place - but I have not resorted to dropping the rear end, yet.

Lots of penetrating oil and good ol' brute force cybernetics.
 
Mike,

I believe you will need to raise the body in order to remove old brackets and install new ones.
The front lip on the bracket slips under the frame rail and is bolted; the bracket passes over the rear cross member and is bolted at that point; the uprights are bolted to the rear body sill.
Be sure to unbolt all body bolts before attempting to lift the body; also remember choke rod , throttle assembly , steering gear, and any other attachments you may have added that would be effected when the body is raised.

Its a big job. Good luck.

Ron
 
Ron, I had forgotten about that forward mounting point.

I'll was working rear to front before I had to quit last night.

I guess it's time for some creative body lifting -

Maybe that's why the brackets were welded in the first place. . .
 
Last edited:
Done -

No pictures as I was doing this by myself and did not want to stop to take pictures.

  • Jacked up car
  • Put jacks stand in for corners of the frame
  • Lowered car and removed tires (good time to rotate tires)
  • With hydraulic jack under the differential, I removed rear shock arms and lowered the differential.
  • Removed nuts on body bolts (all except the very front one)
  • (I had previously removed the four bolts on the bumper bracket - 2 on body sill and two in rear cross member)
  • Use hydraulic jack to lift body from rear (place 2x4 between jack and body)
  • Insert 2x4 between body and frame
  • Removed bolts at the front of the rear bumper bracket
    • The brackets fell right out.
Replacement was a snap!
  • Insert brackets and align the front bolt first
  • Two bolts in the rear cross member (it is much easier to tighten/remove these with the differential hanging down.)
  • Lower body (lift up, remove 2x4)
  • Tighten body bolts (with the car on jack stands, I was able to check for alignment and door closing/opening.)
  • Lift rear end and attach shock arms
  • Install tires
  • Lower car
I did not attach the bumpers or rear bumper cross support until the car was on the ground.

I also attached the risers to body sill AFTER the bumpers were installed. This assured even placement and flexibility to move part around.

Worked like a champ.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top