Rear brakes rebuild

FRANK PKNY

FRANK PKNY

Well-known member
I am about to rebuild the rear brakes on a 15 T. Purchased a kit from Lang's. Are there any tricks or advise you guys can give me prior to my starting this project! Thanks in advance. Frank pkny
 
I have a 23 and purchased the samething from Lang's. I had to take the drums off several times to reduce the size of the shoes to get a good fit. I filed down the side of the shoes and the round part that fits on the cam I had to open some. While in that area I put new grease seals in; you might want to consider that. With my skills, if I can do it I'm betting on you. If you have any problems just post the issue.
 
Thanks abbie,
Very good info, I have not had or worked on a T for many years. It's coming back to me. IE finding the sweet spot with the spark and throttle, to start with the hand crank. Here is a photo if it, can't wait to get it on the road before the bad weather sets in. Frank pkny
100_0300.jpg
 
Nice car!! I grew up with a 15 touring and it's the second car I ever drove. (First one was a 1919 runabout). Good luck with the brakes and keep her rolling!
 
The shoes are a very rough casting. If too thick check that they fit around the pivot bolt snugly. If not here's what I did: Clamp the shoes to the inside of the brake drum. Put a spacer where the actuating cam goes and run a 1/2" drill through the two half holes in the shoes.This will open the two half holes perfectly and they will fit very nicely on the bolt. I also used two old brake shoe anchor washers. The ones that were used on drum brakes on the top anchor (they look like large washers with arms on them). One on each side placed on the bolt before installing the bolt with the "arms" facing up and down. The arms retain the shoes much better than the springs alone.
 
Thanks for the infomation it's very helpfull. I noticed how rough the castings were. The half circles for the cam are rough to but I dont think that would bother the way they work, I will apply some modern brake lube to all the friction points.
 
I use "white lube" or Lubriplate as it was called on all brake friction points. DO NOT grind the lining as this will take the legs off the rivets which are meant to be forced further into the lining with use. Take your time and remove metal from the shoe castings instead of the linings themselves. I think my linings were also bonded or glued to the shoes but I'm not sure.
 
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