Rear Brake Shoe Lining Replacement

J

JBill

Well-known member
There seems to be some disagreement in the archives over whether it is absolutely necessary to remove the emergency brake carrier assembly in order to remove and replace rear brake shoes. Some say it's not easy but it can be done; others say it's not a good idea. I recall an old-timer telling me he had made a tool out of an old screwdriver that didn't make the job easy but made it easier. Has anybody any knowledge of such a tool or tips on how to go about redoing the rear brakes without having to remove the emergency brake carrier and, in the process, the troublesome emergency brake return spring?
 
I'm no expert but I have rebuilt the rear brakes and didn't mind dealing with the emergency brakes. That return spring on the E brake arm was baffling but I figured out a simple way to pull it around the arm. I used a mason line string looped around the spring end that wraps around the arm and pulled the spring to the arm, reached in with a screw driver to push the spring over the arm. Then let go of one end of the string and pulled the other end to remove the string. It is easier to do than to explain
 
I just changed the shoes with the e-brake on. It's a bit of a pain at first but I think its easier then dealing with the e-brake spring. Installing the bottom shoe, I kind of move the shoe into place, making sure the adjuster link enters the hole and with the bottom spring hooked on the shoe and on the pin. You have to get the roller over the track. At first it seems like a no go but with the right angle it goes. For the top shoe I use a regular snap on brake shoe tool and work through the e-brake carrier hole. I unhook both shoe springs working through the holes but catch the spring , with the tool, by the end of the spring hook.
 
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I am in the process of completing a full brake job. The front is complete; I am now working on the rear - service and emergency. I am assuming the reference to the e-brake return spring is the one I see pictured behind the backing plate in the Andrews manual. I was a bit surprised because there are none on the car now L or R. Since the e-brake was working just fine as far as I can tell, I was re-assembling without the spring just the way it was. (Somewhat of a newbie still - owned and driven the car for only just about year now)

Comments?
 
29Cabriolet said:
I am in the process of completing a full brake job. The front is complete; I am now working on the rear - service and emergency. I am assuming the reference to the e-brake return spring is the one I see pictured behind the backing plate in the Andrews manual. I was a bit surprised because there are none on the car now L or R. Since the e-brake was working just fine as far as I can tell, I was re-assembling without the spring just the way it was. (Somewhat of a newbie still - owned and driven the car for only just about year now)

Comments?
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This would seem to fall into the "if it ain't broke" category. Seems to me, though, that without that retracting spring the e-brake might hang up a little. Although on further thought, if the e-brake handle is pushed fully forward that should disengage the brake fully. Shouldn't it? Others have any ideas?

Actually, I've never had that much trouble installing that retracting spring. It's detaching the brake rods, removing the toggle lever and assembly and all that in a place that's not all that accessible--at my age, anyway--that I'd rather avoid if I can. But if I can't, I'll just bite the bullet and do it the long way.
 
JBill said:
This would seem to fall into the "if it ain't broke" category. Seems to me, though, that without that retracting spring the e-brake might hang up a little. Although on further thought, if the e-brake handle is pushed fully forward that should disengage the brake fully. Shouldn't it? Others have any ideas?
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Those were my thoughts exactly :):)
 
I would fix it by installing the springs. It's a little work, but not all that bad, expecailly when you use a wire to hook the spring. Just be sure to use the right springs and arm for the correct sides, as they both have a right and a left.
 
JBill said:
It's detaching the brake rods, removing the toggle lever and assembly and all that in a place that's not all that accessible--at my age, anyway--that I'd rather avoid if I can.
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I understand, but if you do a complete rear brake job you might save having to go back in and go though the whole process again.:rolleyes:
 
Tom is right , Just done two rear brake jobs , at my age love my 4 post hoist to work on the undersides , should have bought it 30 years ago. Derek in hot dry NZ hoping the wind will take a rest.
 
Thanks, friends, for your input. I'll probably end up going the long way around. What else do I have to do this winter?
 
Hi 29 Cabriolet, Stan you should hook up those retracting springs, as Tom says just remember there's a left and right. The hook and screwdriver with a notch in the center of the blade work pretty well, you can also release pressure on the rotation by pulling the pin on the brake side of the drum. Best done with another person but I've done it alone many times. Barry
 
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