Rear Brake Lever Spring Installation

R

RBEDGERTON

Junior Member
Any tips on how one gets the rear brake lever spring installed? I need to install them after the backing plates are bolted to the car, since I didn't remove the rear axle or radius. They are a real booger. Tips on how to get them on and set would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 
Yeh, they are a pain. I have wrappped bailing wire around them and pulled. I hope someone has an easier way.
 
1. Disconnect the "C" shaped (connecting) lever (3780) from the Toggle Lever (3800).
2. With the (outside)Emergency Brake Lever Arm (3830/3840) removed, put the spring (3870 R or L) in place properly oriented.
3. Install the Emergency Brake Lever Arm. Make sure the spring is properly orientated.
4 Pull the Toggle Lever (overcoming the spring) into place with the Connecting Lever and install the pin , (3790) and cotter key.
Part numbers are from Bratton's catalog 2011 (pg 16/17)

I know... sounds too easy. But we all make the same mistake of assembling the entire emergency brake assembly, brake rod and all, and then try to pull that @#!@@@ spring into place. No, I'm no genius, I found this out by accident.
Have fun.
 
I assume we are talking about the emergency brake springs.

The first trick is to determine which is left and which is right. They are a mirror image to each other. I have seen some repos painted red and green (port and starboard). Whenever I remove them I put then in a sandwitch bag and mark them as to which side they are.

I was at a club brake seminar years ago where they discussed which was left and right at length. When they finally decided, they found they had it wrong when they went to install them.

You want to make certain that when the job is complete that the spring is pulling the lever to the release position.

I make up a puller from a wire coat hanger, put a hook at one end and wrap the other end around a handle of some sort. You pull the spring to the rear. The stationary portion of the spring will be outboard and the loop inboard. You will have to pull hard.

To make matters worse, some of the repos I have seen are too small and almost impossible to install.

Tom Endy
 
Talk about just in time! I just replaced the sleeves and bushings on the '29. Hope to assemble tomorrow. Just need to put linings on e-brakes. Any tips on this?

Ron
 
Just need to put linings on e-brakes. Any tips on this?

Just did this. It just takes time and the correct tools. I purchased one of the kits most vendors sell to put on and take off linings. They are about $25 but well worth the price in my book. I think most e-brake linings come without holes for the rivets. So this kit helps you get the holes drilled for the rivet heads.

1. After cutting the lining to about the correct length for one shoe (make it a little long and you can trim later), then use a vise/grip to clamp the end of the lining to the shoe.

2. Put the clamped shoe/lining in a vise so your can use a drill to drill holes.

3. Then drill the two holes on the end of the shoe/lining from the shoe side of the unit.

4. Turn the unit over in the vise and then take the drill countersink thing out of your kit and drill the countersink for the rivet head.

5. Now you are ready to install rivets using the thing in your kit to set rivets.

6. Continue around the shoe doing the same for each hole/rivet.

7. Be sure you keep the counter sink tool sharp. Look it over before you start so you know how to sharpen it.

This is the way a "no-nothing about Model A" guy did it. I am sure the old pro's that work on Model A's more than I have may have a better way.

Now I have to figure out those e-brake spring things!

Good luck
 
This is what worked for me.

EBAY2008.jpg
 
Mag, do you do all the steps you outlined above before or after you attach the backing plate to the axle? I know this may be a simple question but Andrews does not spell out when or how to install the E-Brake lever arm. I was trying to think how I did it on my huckster but could not remember and I am sure other people have an easer way to do things than I do.
 
youngster said:
Talk about just in time! I just replaced the sleeves and bushings on the '29. Hope to assemble tomorrow. Just need to put linings on e-brakes. Any tips on this?

Ron
Click to expand...

e6597ecf.jpg


I put a dab of grease on all the moving parts, but someone else did this installation. I also bevel the ends of the brake linings, which wasn't done on this E-brake and service brakes. Also notice that the emergency brake must be partly applied because the ends of the band are NOT tight against the carrier plate stop tab.

EBrakeBand.jpg


This picture shows the two styles of the emergency brake bands. The forged first style on the bottom has a flat side, and the later stamped steel lugs have an offset that MUST go against the carrier plate. The top side of each in this picture MUST go against the lip on the carrier plate.

E-brakedrill.jpg


E-brakelining.jpg


E-brakebevel.jpg


Here's a stepped drill bit I made to drill the rivet holes in the linings. I used a Dremel to cut down the end of a larger bit, then use a stop collar to set the rivet hole depth. A drop of oil on the rivet setting tool makes the rivet end roll over much easier.

I clamp the lining to the brake band, then using a bit the size of the rivet shaft I drill from the backside through the lining. Then from the top side using my stepped bit and stop collar I drill the counterbore. I rivet one end, then unroll the band a little and clamp the other end of the lining. This will ensure the lining lays tight to the band. I then rivet this end, then go back and drill and rivet the remaining holes.
 
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Fred K-OR said:
Mag, do you do all the steps you outlined above before or after you attach the backing plate to the axle? I know this may be a simple question but Andrews does not spell out when or how to install the E-Brake lever arm. I was trying to think how I did it on my huckster but could not remember and I am sure other people have an easer way to do things than I do.
Click to expand...

The Backing late is in place and the service brake parts and e-brake band are installed then start the outlined procedures. Obviously the Brake Drum is not installed.

However, since I started doing the e-brake installation this way, the spring is installed immediately after bolting on the Backing Plate. Then the service brake and e-brake brake parts are installed as usual. Brake drum installation is last.
 
Thanks Tom for the pictures. They answered several questions. Can you tell I haven't done this before?

One more question if you please. When I took the drum off the drivers side, the C shaped piece and one of the toggles had been rubbing on the back of the hub. In the parts box that came with the car there are a pair of shims to go on the taper. Will this elliminate this from happening again? I have replacement pieces for the damaged ones.

Ron
 
For installing the e-brake spring, I use a screwdriver with a slot cut in the side of the blade, so somewhat like a hook. While wire, etc. works too, this gives leverage and better control for me. I have a pic somewhere but not at my fingertips.
 
youngster said:
Thanks Tom for the pictures. They answered several questions. Can you tell I haven't done this before?

One more question if you please. When I took the drum off the drivers side, the C shaped piece and one of the toggles had been rubbing on the back of the hub. In the parts box that came with the car there are a pair of shims to go on the taper. Will this elliminate this from happening again? I have replacement pieces for the damaged ones.

Ron
Click to expand...

Ron, the emergency brake questions actually should have been a new thread started by you since it's not related to the lever spring in question. Others may have the same question but may not see it or the answer unless they happen to read this thread.

How much end play (in and out) does the axle in question have? Excess wear in the spyder carrier can let the hub come too close to the backing plate, or wear on the axle or hub taper can also cause the brake drum to set too far in, which can be fixed by axle shims. I usually find improper assembly of brake parts causes rubbing on the brake drum. I have a drum where the wear has cut almost all the way through the side of the brake drum. Someone much have not assembled the parts correctly.

Study the pictures and make sure no parts are sticking out enough to rub the brake drum. Also go back to the first picture in #11 and reread the caption,as I've added a comment. Tom Endy does a lot of rear end work and may have better pictures or ideas to add.
 
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What an afternoon. Took me most of the afternoon to get the e-brake spring put on and attached to to the arm. I finally made a tool similar to the one Russ showed a picture of out of a welding rod. Bored a hole in a wood block, put the rod through it and then made a hook on the other end. Cheap and simple for a simple guy. Thanks Russ, you saved the day so I could get in a little early to have a beer.
 
Fred K-OR said:
What an afternoon. Took me most of the afternoon to get the e-brake spring put on and attached to to the arm. I finally made a tool similar to the one Russ showed a picture of out of a welding rod. Bored a hole in a wood block, put the rod through it and then made a hook on the other end. Cheap and simple for a simple guy. Thanks Russ, you saved the day so I could get in a little early to have a beer.
Click to expand...

Happy to hear I was able to help you. I've had such great help from others here, it's good to be able to contribute. I got my tool at Harbor Freight, just as shown.
 
i think the correct tool is ..... PATIENCE ! i know i need it when i put that spring on !
 
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